left side drive conversion
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themadhatter
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i am i am, give me a few weeks and you get pics of both of my bikes, im running a husaberg motor too, just mines put in as if it was there from day one, had billet mounts made and laser lined it up, dropped the shock mount by 2" now usind a ducati 999 shock, looks like a work of art man!!! i didnt realise how much ali welding would cost tho, its ridiculously expensive!!!!
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marshall100
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I know, I started a coded welding course last year which I must get round to finishing. More of a stick welder which of course for alu is useless!
I've got to get that GSXR1000 can on my road bike soon, I've had to revert back to the toaster which I have to patch up while I sort the other one out.
Newly rebuilt engine sounds amazing. You can feel it and not in a 'I'm going to throw my crank' kinda way. I wonder what it's worth.........?
I've got to get that GSXR1000 can on my road bike soon, I've had to revert back to the toaster which I have to patch up while I sort the other one out.
Newly rebuilt engine sounds amazing. You can feel it and not in a 'I'm going to throw my crank' kinda way. I wonder what it's worth.........?
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themadhatter
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MX Quad Dad
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QUOTE (themadhatter @ Dec 9 2010, 03:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanx mx dad,
So to clarify would you use the Dale swinger and bearing carrier and axle just flipped over the other way or use the Dale swinger with a Honda style banshee bearing and carrier and axle???
I was looking at the varna on my motor last nite too and I think it will be easy to angle them slightly so that the air filters clear either side of the rear shock, in the next couple of weeks I'll do a mock up just waiting on my original speed frame to come back from the polishers then we shall really see,
With this build I'll be using a Walsh 250r tank so will have plenty of clearance for the top of the engine and exhaust so no issue there either.
Can't wait to get started now!!!!!
So to clarify would you use the Dale swinger and bearing carrier and axle just flipped over the other way or use the Dale swinger with a Honda style banshee bearing and carrier and axle???
I was looking at the varna on my motor last nite too and I think it will be easy to angle them slightly so that the air filters clear either side of the rear shock, in the next couple of weeks I'll do a mock up just waiting on my original speed frame to come back from the polishers then we shall really see,
With this build I'll be using a Walsh 250r tank so will have plenty of clearance for the top of the engine and exhaust so no issue there either.
Can't wait to get started now!!!!!
I would use what ever was easiest and safe. cost would be a factor also. I figure, unless you know how it will ballance out and handle. keep the cost and hassle down in that area if possible until you can get it out for a test run. depending on what you are doing with it you may want to lengthen or shorten it.
I haven't put the pieces together (mostly because I don't have enough to get even close to finishing it and my son keeps talking about selling the banshee). But I would tend to use what I have if it would be safe, line up correctly and look good. When I did the swap of putting the banshee axil on the 250R it was near the end of the season and the banshee thru a rod on a good size step down jump. wanting to finish the season and everybody telling my son how great the R's were, we picked one up to finish the season. axil broke at the next race. our banshee had a lonestar axil and carrier and we had the tires he liked on the banshee wheels. banshee axil wont fit into the honda bearing but the carrier fit perfect.
we run a single carb so that might give me a problem.
From what I hear that walsh tank is pretty small. and our banshee guzzeled the gass.
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themadhatter
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Well I'll be running +4 swinger that I got from kdeal this should help me keep the front end down
Well I hope at least!!! Ha ha ha
With the 250r tank I'm going to modify it to make it bigger, as it wont be running any of the standard air box or filter from the Dale, and the ecu tray will be useless I can get the tank extended forward and down to fill in that space, I'll mock it up in card then get it professionally done by a ally welder.
I have been looking at my +4 swinger and I've noticed that the brake stay bung is only screwed into the side not welded, so all I'll do is drill and tap a hole n exactly the same place on the other side then as the swinger Is symmetrical both sides I should then just need to flip the carrier over and I have a left drive Dale, I've got a laser liner to line the front and rear sprockets up, mounting the motor will be easy as originally the banshee motor doesn't use the swinger as a mount, so i can construct a ally mount above the swinger under the shock mount and the front ones will be easy once the motor is lined up and leveled( slightly nose down as original) front mounts will be welded lowers and braced and bolted through the top straight through the engine as original
Mock up picks to follow soon
Well I hope at least!!! Ha ha ha
With the 250r tank I'm going to modify it to make it bigger, as it wont be running any of the standard air box or filter from the Dale, and the ecu tray will be useless I can get the tank extended forward and down to fill in that space, I'll mock it up in card then get it professionally done by a ally welder.
I have been looking at my +4 swinger and I've noticed that the brake stay bung is only screwed into the side not welded, so all I'll do is drill and tap a hole n exactly the same place on the other side then as the swinger Is symmetrical both sides I should then just need to flip the carrier over and I have a left drive Dale, I've got a laser liner to line the front and rear sprockets up, mounting the motor will be easy as originally the banshee motor doesn't use the swinger as a mount, so i can construct a ally mount above the swinger under the shock mount and the front ones will be easy once the motor is lined up and leveled( slightly nose down as original) front mounts will be welded lowers and braced and bolted through the top straight through the engine as original
Mock up picks to follow soon
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marshall100
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (themadhatter @ Dec 9 2010, 01:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
what the motor????
over here probobly not much unless you find the rite person for it???
ive given up on a dale motor im goin to stick to the frankenstien approach and shove a drag banshee motor in now.
over here probobly not much unless you find the rite person for it???
ive given up on a dale motor im goin to stick to the frankenstien approach and shove a drag banshee motor in now.
The whole thing...
But I'll not be parting with it. I'm shocked you gave up on the motor, bar a few minor hiccups on my part it was ace. I'll be digging the spare one out of it's box and bagging up the parts for it's next rebuild. I think I might do whatever I can to make it a bit special without going down the D+M kit route.
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themadhatter
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MX Quad Dad
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QUOTE (themadhatter @ Dec 9 2010, 11:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've noticed that the brake stay bung is only screwed into the side not welded, so all I'll do is drill and tap a hole n exactly the same place on the other side then as the swinger
That screw only holds a steel wear cap on. there is a aluminum nub under it. but still shouldn't be that big a deal to get one welded on.
I was looking at mine today, and there is no easy way that i can see to make my single carb work. I would be worried about angling the carb because one cylinder might run lean
also looks like the tubing that connects the top spar to the lower frame (the one just in front of the craddle mount) will be right in the path of the pipes. was thinking about it and think maybe I could cut them out and fab an "X" to put back in
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themadhatter
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ok so i got a banshee motor sitting in a frame last nite, it fits wich is good news.
your rite tho, the single carb will not work easy unless you lower the rear shock mount, i did this on my other bike with the husaberg conversion, this works but you have to use a shorter shock, i used a ducatti 999 shock, geometry works great but it is uless for off road, but as mine is a road bike its perfect.
also to make the single carb fit better you will have to loose the K&N long style filter and use a HKS mushroom style one from a car, i had to do this too on my trx when i ran this engine in it.
the part of the frame you are talking about is in the way, there are two options with this, you can either cut out the entire front end rad mounting parts andthe nurf mount tube area and redesign it fit the exhaust and put a banshee rad infront of the steering stem, which will look ugly, or turn a bansee rad on its side and mount it high up behind the stem maybe???
the option im going to use tho is a pair of out of frame drag pipes with stingers on to keep the noise down, these fit like a dream and make it look seriously sick!!!! (plus i have a set in the garage)
no cutting and welding needed to the front end at all that way and you can keep the standard rad too. woo hoo!!!
the rear of the motor sits lovely infront of/above the swinger mount, all it needs is a cross bar welded just above the swinger mount with a cup section in the middle thats bigger than the engine mount this will allow side to side movement to align the motor to the rear sprocket easier, then use billet ali spacers to fill in the gaps once positioned.
the front motor mounts are simple billet brackes that can be bolted on will work perfectly, the most important thing to note is that the banshee's engine mounts are off centre from the front to the rear so the front mounts wioll need to be off centre too so an angle in the brackets will need to be formed. all easy but just so you know.
the last thing to decide is weather or not to use the engine supports that are under the engine to stop vibration, im not going to bother using them as im running a banshee motor in an lt250r frame and that has no vibration what so ever.
this is mainly due to the fact that it has two cylinders working opposite each other that reduces engine movement (prob why yamaha didnt bother with a counter balancer in the engine as it didnt need it)????
on a different note, if your going to tune up the engine for ashphalt/supermoto use just as a word of advice drop the standard banshee gearbox and swap it for the RD350 road bike version, it has a slightly higher gear ratio that gives the bottom end extra torque and whole shots will be yours all day long. i use them in both my 421 engines and it helps big time, you can pick one up really cheap too!!!!
anyways sorry to bore everyone, ill shut up now!!!!
your rite tho, the single carb will not work easy unless you lower the rear shock mount, i did this on my other bike with the husaberg conversion, this works but you have to use a shorter shock, i used a ducatti 999 shock, geometry works great but it is uless for off road, but as mine is a road bike its perfect.
also to make the single carb fit better you will have to loose the K&N long style filter and use a HKS mushroom style one from a car, i had to do this too on my trx when i ran this engine in it.
the part of the frame you are talking about is in the way, there are two options with this, you can either cut out the entire front end rad mounting parts andthe nurf mount tube area and redesign it fit the exhaust and put a banshee rad infront of the steering stem, which will look ugly, or turn a bansee rad on its side and mount it high up behind the stem maybe???
the option im going to use tho is a pair of out of frame drag pipes with stingers on to keep the noise down, these fit like a dream and make it look seriously sick!!!! (plus i have a set in the garage)
no cutting and welding needed to the front end at all that way and you can keep the standard rad too. woo hoo!!!
the rear of the motor sits lovely infront of/above the swinger mount, all it needs is a cross bar welded just above the swinger mount with a cup section in the middle thats bigger than the engine mount this will allow side to side movement to align the motor to the rear sprocket easier, then use billet ali spacers to fill in the gaps once positioned.
the front motor mounts are simple billet brackes that can be bolted on will work perfectly, the most important thing to note is that the banshee's engine mounts are off centre from the front to the rear so the front mounts wioll need to be off centre too so an angle in the brackets will need to be formed. all easy but just so you know.
the last thing to decide is weather or not to use the engine supports that are under the engine to stop vibration, im not going to bother using them as im running a banshee motor in an lt250r frame and that has no vibration what so ever.
this is mainly due to the fact that it has two cylinders working opposite each other that reduces engine movement (prob why yamaha didnt bother with a counter balancer in the engine as it didnt need it)????
on a different note, if your going to tune up the engine for ashphalt/supermoto use just as a word of advice drop the standard banshee gearbox and swap it for the RD350 road bike version, it has a slightly higher gear ratio that gives the bottom end extra torque and whole shots will be yours all day long. i use them in both my 421 engines and it helps big time, you can pick one up really cheap too!!!!
anyways sorry to bore everyone, ill shut up now!!!!
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marshall100
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
You better have plenty of pictures of this and you better send them in to quad magazine uk. If I can get a feature in there about my old warrior and then the dale you should get a double page spread!
I really must get that exhaust done this weekend, the toaster I've put on there has completely had it!
Is the husy a 4 stroke or stink wheels?
I really must get that exhaust done this weekend, the toaster I've put on there has completely had it!
Is the husy a 4 stroke or stink wheels?