Seat latch

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speedracer
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#1 Post by speedracer »

Has anyone got a fix for a bad seat latch?The brass insert has trashed the hole in the seat pan blink.gif .I know Lonestar made a fix for this problem,anyone got a pic of this set-up?Thanks.

jesshamner
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#2 Post by jesshamner »

I don't have a pic but I just put threaded studs into the plastic columns that protrude down to the subframe near the latch hole. I drilled holes for small cotter pins. Then I just used some correct sized washers between the pins and the subframe. It has been that way for years until I recently got the fullbore plastic. Its thicker so I removed the washers and its still holding fine. I'm finally starting to get back to race pace when I ride which is how I lost my stock seat latch in the first place. The new system is holding up just fine!

kdeal
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#3 Post by kdeal »

I believe the one from a 400ex is the correct spacing. Another idea is to give Caniboomer a call, he has a huge timesert that allows you to drill the hole way bigger and install new threads.

speedracer
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#4 Post by speedracer »

Thanks guys,I did a search,just like Jess said,got it done!

gml1998
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#5 Post by gml1998 »

QUOTE (speedracer @ Mar 24 2011, 10:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Has anyone got a fix for a bad seat latch?The brass insert has trashed the hole in the seat pan blink.gif .I know Lonestar made a fix for this problem,anyone got a pic of this set-up?Thanks.

I took a dremel tool and made a 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch hole in the plastic on the side of the seat pan. then I took a 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch by 4 inch long piece of steel with a hole drilled and tapped to fit the hold down bolt threads. Slide the steel plate through the hole in the side of the pan and center it above the old hole.Then use black silicone to fill the entry hole.Unless you look closely you can't see the repair and now you have a beefy steel plate instead of a threaded insert to hold your seat down.
I also took a stainless steel fishing leader and tethered the hold down bolt to the frame,In case it backs out you won't loose it.
Ace hardware has a selection of misc sized hold down type bolts with plastic knobs on the end ,very similar to oem type but with american threading.
Hope this helps.

jinx44
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#6 Post by jinx44 »

One of my moto's has the Lonestar latch. If I think about it, I will snap a picture tonight.

MX Quad Dad
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#7 Post by MX Quad Dad »

To keep from loosing the hold down bolt, I used a lock nut with red loctite and ran it down on the seat bolt before putting the seat on leaving about a quarter inch slop between the nut and sub frame. I ran it down enough that with the seat tight the nut was not touching the seat pan, that way when you back it out, the bolt drops down enough to slide the seat back to remove it. Now when I take the seat off or if it did back out the bolt stays in the sub frame.

First one I used two of those thin jamb nuts with a flat washer between the nut and subframe. but the locktite one works fine, plus I had a flanged lock nut that fit, which has a bigger surface to keep it from wearing thru if it did come loose during riding.

I didn't realize how often I use to pull the seat off the banshee when my son was racing. in the first season I can only remember once on the dale, when we thought we needed to changed a plug.

Canniboomer
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#8 Post by Canniboomer »


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