Cannondaleriders

Here you go. Highly recommend doing this after any rebuild.

Nice

:clap: great write-up and pics!. You mentioned the oil bridge o-rings, and that should be stressed, how to prevent that install damage: I put the outermost new o-ring in first, and then kind of float the inner o-ring over the first one at a slight angle, and then into place. It's a good point to mention, that they are easily gouged if you just push them on without thinking, or try to skip the inside o-ring over the first very sharp groove.
good stuff this sticky, thanks

Good point boomer . I have had good luck just using semifluid oil. Its very thick and works great on orings. Also taking a dremel to the inside of the oil bridge and chamfering the sharp edges works great.

I have been getting a lot of questions about this suject lately and it seems this thread got lost in FAQ and never read. There should almost be a thread on engine rebuilding tips and tricks that consolidates all the wonderfull howtoos contributed over the years. Maybe a service manual with updates and tips added that says stuff like take the oil pump drive pins off your counterbalancer before removing and never hit the shaft with a hammer. It could also include how to rebuild your own decomp and how to instal cool stuff like magnets and Caniboomers sight glasses. Some of you must have time to go through thousands of posts. LOL

Thats the reason it was in the FAQ section.

Maybe I just dont go through it enough .

..Id like to add to this tip..It worked Great, tho I learned that much over 3 to 4 psi it would pop the bubbles to fast to even know about a leak,So what i did was make sure I had a small leak with the hose I was useing and teasted bubblies on that to see how fast they would grow.
..I also before the test with the cam cover off got my 60cc Syring and put it in the oil feed hole,and shot 3 full 60cc into it and was able to watch oil come out to oil the cams.After I did the air test I gave one more shot,this made sure everything was primped with oil.

I??????????????????m working on a friends bike right now that spiting oil out the frame vent, witch I think is from over fill, and very little oil out the trany vent. So I ran this test with the motor in the frame, I just plugged into the frame vent nipple. I got my spray bottle out and sprayed it on the trany vent. I got very, very little bubbles, so I cracked open the motor oil filter and got way more bubbles for comparison. Took off clutch cover and sprayed what I could and got nothing. I think the trany was over filled, but this bike is running same oils in both.
I just want to know if I should dump all oils and start with redline in trany and run it see if they mix. Or drop motor run test again and see what I get. He just bought this bike from jefarre?? it??????????????????s a uni corn case and I think a falcon crank?
BTW I love doing this test,works very well.I was able to find a bad cam gear seal with this..t/y..

Maybe some of these tips are not taken very seriously . In the last couple weeks I have heard of one engine failure and possibly another that could have been prevented by this SIMPLE test. All it takes is a slight crack /missing or cut oring to slowly bleed the engine oil into the tranny and wipe out your engine that Im sure some have invested thousands of dollars . But hey its your money .

This test saved me from putting this motor back in... a couple of times! Needless to say that you need to check more than just seals!
Can you say tranny oil transfer to engine side!