xxxxxTOOTH COUNT WILL ALWAYS BE SAME AS STOCK NO MATTER MOVESxxxxx
No Degree wheel?Print this off full size paste it to some cardboard or sheetmetal cut it out,stick it on a socket and mount it to crank and your set.(Mydreamrides idea)
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First off be prepared to spend some time doing this. There is no way to estimate how long it will take to reach the specs you want. Couple times I have hit numbers first try. Other times I have tried nearly 40 combinations on one cam to get what I wanted. Have patience.
Before you start look for wear in the cam drive system. Chain, gears, shafts and bearings. Keep in mind that under load most play will be taken up so a bit isn't critical since you are rotating motor in same direction it runs when doing cam timing. Here is a badly worn chain. If chain has any kinks it is junk.
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TDC bolt in. Setup your wheel. Use a paperclip under filter cover. Get it as close to wheel matching zero line as possible but not touching. You do this because your eyes can play trick depending on angle you are looking at it. Try to look at it straight on and same each time. 1Deg. matters. [attachment=7358:Cam_Timi...tips_016.jpg]
Confirm TDC with indicator to top of piston. I have never found TDC off more than .5Deg but never know. Then setup your indicator. Notice angle matches angle of bucket as close as possible. Put TDC bolt spacer and cranknut on one of side cover bolts as shown. This guarantees you won't forget to tighten or remove TDC bolt depending on style you have BEFORE cover is on. Cranknut Washer also
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Gear bolts should just be lightly tight when doing cam timing. Loosen them using a vice with softjaws and a breaker bar. Notice alignment with cap before you remove gear. Once you disregard the stock markings on gears this helps. I always remark the gears in same way as factory so you can do your tooth count as normal.
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Leave bolts out of left timing chain guide it and cranknut will need to be removed if you have to move chain or chain driven gear. Everything else is left intact.
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Use manual for procedure it is very well written. Following the procedure write down all your results each step doing the math in writing it eliminates errors and gives you records of your work. Congratulations if you accomplish this you will have more power and type of power you want. You also are in a very small club of people who are really serious about thier motor building.
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Use this order for accomplishing your timing goal:
1)Pin position manipulation with ALL stock gear marks lined up
2)Pin position manipulation disregarding cam gear marks
3)Moving chain driven gear one tooth to left/right of stock mark is 4 deg+ 4 deg-
4)Chain driven gearand pin manipulation.
5)If two or four holecam/gear use a fully adjustable gear on one cam or both as last resort
Remark your gears when you are done ensure your new marks are same amount of teeth apart as stock markings.If only moving pins stock markings will be used for alignment.
xxxxxTOOTH COUNT WILL ALWAYS BE SAME AS STOCK NO MATTER MOVESxxxxx
Here is pic of driven gear and the marking I am talking of.When moving this gear chain will stay in stock position on the crank but be moved one notch on drivengear.Along with leaving the bolts out of left chainguide you can leave the bridge/chain squirter off when doing this also.
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Remarked gear.White bright dots are new marks.
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