Cannondaleriders

A friend on this site kept having problems with bolts backing out even though they were red loctited. He is an ASE certified mechanic and this was driving him nuts. He would thoroughly clean, tap out, use brake clean and blow dry out the holes before using a good grade of red loctite but he still would have bolts come out. He has resorted to changing parts thinking the thread clearances were too loose. After a discussion with Timbo it seems that there are certain types of brake clean that leave a film that does not allow the loctite to do it's job. He did a test in the shop using multiple types of brake clean and found out it's absolutely the problem!

I was never much of a brake clean person as I have always had a parts washer with the old school mineral spirits in it (yes it's very expensive!) and used brake clean sparingly before I met Wistech. I think he owns stock in brake clean and I have been using a ton of it every since (I buy it by the case). Fortunately for me the brand I use exclusively does not have the above problem.

Per Timbo and the tests conducted stay away from the "Advance Auto" house brand brake clean. We know there is at least one more because the stuff in my buddy's shop that comes in 55 gallon drums is also a problem with loctite! I have been using "CRC" in the red can (chlorinated, the stuff in the green can is non-chlorinated), with zero problems.

Just an FYI, and a warning to not be so cheap on your brake clean!!

Good Tip!
I have used contact cleaner. It seems to break down grime and dries quickly. I haven't noticed anything backing out but I haven't done any specific testing either.

Napa has the same stuff Timbo uses but it is Napa brand. I think Timbo's is Pennzoil or one of those. If you want to be sure its done right use Mineral spirits, Brake Clean and then the Loctite Primer intended for the Loctite being used. That primer is some wicked stuff and will guarantee its clean. It also ups the rating of Loctite being used. I blow the primer out of the hole and bolt and use it as final clean. Another thing to watch for is oversize holes. Is some "03 cases that even when screwed almost all the way in some of those bolts still wiggle. Right thing to do would be Helicoil all those holes but if Loctited properly with devils Blood and Stage 8/Bluebolts its not a issue.

I use the gunk pro series yellow can brake cleaner. Loctite red threadlocker. Never ever would a bolt come out with that stuff. Timbo uses some even harsher stuff but you pay the price in engine damage/repair from broken bolts the next time you need to remove them.

On the subject of Brake Clean....DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEAN ON SOMETHING YOU ARE GOING TO WELD!!!!

This was discussed last year on a race car forum that I am on. This forum has some of the best builders in the world, and some of the fastest cars, including a couple top fuel guys that drop in every now and then. 99.9% of the members (including myself) had never heard of it causing problems. Apparently, a chemical in brake clean turns extremely toxic when heat is applied.

Here is a link to one article on it: http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm



Just my public service announcement for the day.

I've always used the CRC brand with no issues. Good warning.

Oh yes Brake clean with flourocarbons and tetracloroethelyne turns into mustard gas when exposed to an open flame. You will know it immediatly as it destroys mucous membranes on contact.
You can technically use it for cleaning before welding but you absolutly have to be sure it has all evaporated. A good washdown in soapy water helps.

I have always used CRC quick dry electrical cleaner. Dries in seconds with no film.