Engine Fixes(what to look for)

Message

cannondale27 · #1 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 2:19 am

If it is time for a valve check.

1)Check valves(intake are usually tight)
2)Stud Update(Loctite every bolt in motor)
3)Motor mount update(front motor mount will crack at case and cradle)
4)Clutch Update(discs will bend on some could break off)
5)Compression release(early motors had a rivet now its allen bolt rivet can shear off)
6)Valve cover(corrosion behind waterpump need Evans or aluminum valve cover)
7)Breather Update(cures oil in air filter)
8)Plastic oil pump gears(look for wear can also cause oil in filter)
9)Battery tray update(wear on battery from rubbing)
10)Butterfly in throttle body(make sure screws are tight can cause throttle to stick)
11)Fuel line connecting two injectors(wear from rubbing put a cover over it)REPLACE CRACKED BRITTLE FUEL LINE NOW
12)Stator(some wear on flywheel,sleeve under clip)
13)Airbox(can leak where it goes around stem,Put grease in slot and silicone at joints)
14)swingarm bearings(lube or replace)
15)flush radiator
16)fuel pump- terminal protector
17)rings(blowby,low comp,dirty oil)
18)Crankbearings(rod and main)
19)Valves and springs(consider replacing springs if high hour)
20)Bucket to bore clearance(make sure they dont stick)
21)Balljoints(check before every ride)
Most of these are covered under bulletins and some are only high wear but please take the time to do them.Cannondale cant be warrantying forever and this should solve most future problems.Anyone got any others?

btolenti · #2 Post by **btolenti** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 4:08 am

Great List!!!

fyrmedic · #3 Post by **fyrmedic** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 6:09 am

Thanx for the info!! glad there are guys out there who are willing to help!!

Ryanstones · #4 Post by **Ryanstones** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 1:35 pm

2.a. If scavenge pump cover is replaced, confirm that lower left bolt is not too long and that cover seals properly. Unsealed the pump will drain tranny oil into crank, resulting in toasted clutch or worse.

?'27, re: 17. You use grease to seal the airbox upper and lower halves? with silicone at the front joints?

LapTraffic · #5 Post by **LapTraffic** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 4:24 pm

Im curious about something.

If I need the stud update, and I think I do. Should I just take the whole bike in?

The reason I ask is that I am approaching the point in time to get my valves checked and I was going to drop the motor and take it in and have them service the valves (saves several hundred dollars in labor) But if they are going to be in there for warranty work anyway I wont go through the hassle of dropping the motor. Also the motor mount and battery tray bulletins both apply to my bike.

Plus I want the bike remapped and the offsets lowered to lean it out a bit and it should probably be in running condition (whole) for that.

Thoughts?

Is there a way to determine if you need the stud update kit other than popping the case? Serial number etc?

btolenti · #6 Post by **btolenti** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 8:20 pm

I believe all you have to do is remove the clutch cover, and check for a flanged nut. I have yet to do this, but am going to attempt it tonight. There is a bulletin on the cannondale site that shows the proper procedure.

http://www.cannondale.com/motorsports/tech...df/TB02-011.pdf

LapTraffic · #7 Post by **LapTraffic** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 8:32 pm

Got it, I'll change the fluids when I get home and check for the flanged nuts. I have a file going with needed updates and am talking to the dealer to get this stuff scheduled.

Thanks!

LapTraffic · #8 Post by **LapTraffic** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 10:27 pm

That's exactly my concern.

When it was just the valve job, they quoted me 390 to do the motor drop and valve check.

It was 130 with me dropping the motor and bring it alone in. The 130 included the parts if they needed to make an adjustment

Im setting this up so that if the stud update has to be done, well the engine has to be out under warranty at which time the valves can be checked with minimal labor charges passed on to me.

The manager is checking into it right now to make sure that will fly. Otherwise Ill drop the motor myself, and probably do the adjustment myself if it's not too terribly difficult.

I dont want something for nothing, but I dont want to pay extra for nothing either.

HAs anyone done their own valve work? Is it difficult?

LapTraffic · #9 Post by **LapTraffic** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 11:13 pm

Do you just order the shim package from the dealer?

If they can get it together, I can get it apart, however, that does NOT mean I can get it back together again... kindof like folding maps

If I dont need the stud update then Ill do the valves myself. If I DO need the stud update I'll drop the whole bike off and they can drop the motor for that and then do the valves.

Thanks for the info.

TricityCdale · #10 Post by **TricityCdale** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 11:53 pm

I don't think you want to buy the shim set. My dealer said the full set was like $1000.00 or something outrageous. The engine manual has an appendix with the instructions and table for determining the correct shim size based on your measured clearance. Just measure it, determine the shim you need and order that shim. If it even need adjusting. From what I have heard, very few need adjusting. Mine didn't after about six months of heavy riding. They were dead nuts in the middle of the range.