you will find one small ball bearing that will confuse you
heck it confused the dealer they didn't put it back in trust me look for the ball 8mm when ya pull the clutch basket tilt the quad to the right so it stays in the basket when ya pull it off I was told in older cdales it was on the other side of the other side of the thro rod altho i can't see why just what i was told.
Most importat thing DON"T PULL THE CLUTCH LEVER WHILE YOU HAVE IT APART!!!!!
Is this bearing an issue on the 03's? Should I roll my on it's side before I pull the clutch and clutch cover? Also once I get inside what all should I be checking....just to make sure that all alen bolts are tight or should I also be looking for case through botls and nuts? I am so confused! I have never been inside my Dale before and I am a little confused what needs attention. I only want to do this once? How many different problems am I looking for? Do I need to open up both case coves (left and right)?
Originally posted by marceb16 Is this bearing an issue on the 03's? Should I roll my on it's side before I pull the clutch and clutch cover? Also once I get inside what all should I be checking....just to make sure that all alen bolts are tight or should I also be looking for case through botls and nuts? I am so confused! I have never been inside my Dale before and I am a little confused what needs attention. I only want to do this once? How many different problems am I looking for? Do I need to open up both case coves (left and right)?
:confused:
you only need to open the left side (sitting on the bike). you are looking to make sure the allen head bolts behind the clutch basket are tight. The bolts can be seen in the photos at the beginning of this thread.
Originally posted by wyndzer If you have a bike built after about February 2002 then this is an issue. Mine was built in December 2001 before the crankcase change was made. In other words, this could happen to early bikes, but the ones made between the case change and the update are the ones to look out for. Mine is a2002 #90 Speed.
rkisak
This might help ya out don't panic it's realy not that hard to do you can find plenty of info about this topic and O yeah welcome to the Site:cool:
also is there a service manual cd available anywhere?
Yes we have the info for the most part every thing cdale posted do not by it on e-bay! I have most every thing if not we can get it + more custom maps and stuff:cool:
loook, im looking to buy a used CANNIBAL some time real soon, and am wondering, how much do all these updates cost???? i would REALLY appreciate a reply, and would be saving me a lot of anguish if it were to break on me:( so please send the list of updates and prices for each to aroracer72@yahoo.com , or post them, thx a lot...Chad:)
loook, im looking to buy a used CANNIBAL some time real soon, and am wondering, how much do all these updates cost???? i would REALLY appreciate a reply, and would be saving me a lot of anguish if it were to break on me:( so please send the list of updates and prices for each to aroracer72@yahoo.com , or post them, thx a lot...Chad:)
It's all in the forum. Just keep searching. Here's one I wrote the other day:
Well, if you want to really check it over. Bring a set of tools and a stand.
Stud update:
The crank cartridge plate was first held in by socket head cap screws. They tend to loosen over time. A quick check. Put the machine on it's side(thumbthrottle towards the ground) pull the black clutch cover, remove clutch plates, and you will be able to see a bolt at about 10 O'clock through the clutch basket holes. It it's just a socket head cap screw, then the motor does not have to update. It it appears to be a stud with a nut on the end, then it has the update. The Stage 8 update kit runs about $98, and plan on around 2-3 hours labor at the dealer if you do not want to tackle it yourself. It could be a bill of around $300(take that into consideration for the quad price)
Oil vent update. On the right side of the motor, there is 2 drain holes behind the brake pedal. Left bolt is for the tranny, right one is engine oil. If there is a hose going to the right bolt still, then you do not have this update done. This is a cheap fix, a $5.00 brass T fitting, a $0.59 one foot piece of hose, and $2.00 in hose clamps. There is a full pic and step by step procedure in the forum somewhere on this.
Front engine mount update The front motor mounts have been known to crack on some cases. A easy fix is drill out the inserts in the motor, and put one bolt through both mounts, with a aluminum spacer in between the motor mounts. I've seen the kits cost anywhere from $30 - $60 for this.
What to look for: check all bearings. wheel bearings, swing-arm etc. Do not want any play. Check the tie rods. They've been known to wear pre-maturely. Take off the front plastic, check to see if the air filter was mounted properly (curved side up) if there was dust getting by, might lead to problems down the road. Check the wire conditions, there has been some trouble with wires rubbing bare, and shorting out the system. check the fuel filter condition. Your suppose to change this regularly, around 10 hrs. Ask the previous owner how often it was changed.
Thanks about all I can think of. A properly maintained used Cannondale is as good as a new one!
trust me look for the ball 8mm when ya pull the clutch basket tilt the quad to the right so it stays in the basket when ya pull it off I was told in older cdales it was on the other side of the other side of the thro rod altho i can't see why just what i was told.
In other words, this could happen to early bikes, but the ones made between the case change and the update are the ones to look out for. Mine is a2002 #90 Speed. 
and O yeah welcome to the Site:cool: