My girls on their ATVs...

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momentum
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#21 Post by momentum »

Guys, save your money on the block off plate. You already have one in the oil pump itself.

What we do it pull the flywheel (250R puller) and remove the plastic gear from the crank. Very simple to do. You have to remove the cylinder (liquid cooled) to get to the screws to remove the oil pump. If you do it this way you have a plug for the hole and don't have to mess with the cylinder.

Shane

thedeatons
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#22 Post by thedeatons »

I guess I don't understand what you mean here... smile.gif I know about the plastic crank gear, I left mine in on the 70 engine (now sold). How will pulling that gear give us a block off plate? It still seems as if the location where I installed the block off plate would suck in a lot of sand (we ride sand nearly exclusively)....??

Update to this thread: Unemployment has left some time on my hands, so I am currently installing a 1991 Kawasaki KX60 engine in my oldest daughter's DRR 70. No more CVT (hp robber), she will be going from a 6hp CVT to a 13+hp shifter..... smile.gif

NRath
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#23 Post by NRath »

I think he means once you pull the plastic gear, leave the pump in and it's just not connected.

I'm a tight wad, so if I can make it, I will. Which I did. I made a couple covers for my 2 out of some .050 stainless. Works well. Had to grind the case a tad because the face wasn't flat, but that wasn't a problem.

Momentum, are you saying I won't be able to pull the oil injector off the w/c machine the same way I did on the air cooled? You can't get to the 2 screws on the w/c pump because of the cylinder? If the cylinder is pulled, I'd assume I need to replace the gasket, right?

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