Ohlins rear spring
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Why not try draining the damper and checking the viscosity of the oil in it and try a grade or two lighter.... how inexpensive is that... a few bucks...? Just to test ride you needn't re-gas with nitrogen, just air would do to try 'till you get an idea where abouts you want to be. If you put your adjusters to a mid-setting and try oils and springs 'till you're resonably happy then you can tweak the adjusters to fine-tune to your optimum requirements.
A softer spring is also a cheap thing to try as they are readily available from auto racing shops. They are industry standard 2 1/4" (58mm) ID springs and typically cost around $50. Even if it's not you're stock length (9") the spring platform can be adjusted a good way to suit and if you only use a 6" spring you can use a spacer to get the length up. You might even be able to 'borrow' some springs from a race team to try as they tend to have lots of different rates for different tracks/weather conditions.
Once you know what oil grade and spring rate you want you can then order a good quality, correct length, correct grade etc and finally gas it up with Nitrogen....
I am using a 404lb/in 6" Renton titanium spring but I have made a titanium shock body that is threaded all the way up the outside of the body so I don't need a spacer, the spring seat adjusts all the way up the body (the plastic sleeve has gone too).
A Ti spring has much more 'open' coils so you can use a much shorter spring and not get coil-bound on full compression.... I have some pics somewhere if you want to see what I mean....
A softer spring is also a cheap thing to try as they are readily available from auto racing shops. They are industry standard 2 1/4" (58mm) ID springs and typically cost around $50. Even if it's not you're stock length (9") the spring platform can be adjusted a good way to suit and if you only use a 6" spring you can use a spacer to get the length up. You might even be able to 'borrow' some springs from a race team to try as they tend to have lots of different rates for different tracks/weather conditions.
Once you know what oil grade and spring rate you want you can then order a good quality, correct length, correct grade etc and finally gas it up with Nitrogen....
I am using a 404lb/in 6" Renton titanium spring but I have made a titanium shock body that is threaded all the way up the outside of the body so I don't need a spacer, the spring seat adjusts all the way up the body (the plastic sleeve has gone too).
A Ti spring has much more 'open' coils so you can use a much shorter spring and not get coil-bound on full compression.... I have some pics somewhere if you want to see what I mean....
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Sure.Wont be a one week turnaround though.Going riding this weekend and going to Florida next.You know buying the ZPS spring setup will work just fine you just wont be able to use the zps portion much if at all.Might be smarter way to go in case you decide to go with a zps setup in front later on.Most people who get shock work done will find once you get rear done then front feels subpar since the bar has been raised so to speak.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
What I mean is since you dont have ZPS fronts if you had ZPS rear you would have to raise the rear up probably to the point where the zps spring which is only made to hold the main spring in.Wasnt doing anything.The so called "preload" nut on a ZPS shock is used to adjust ride hieght not like a regular shock where it is used to adjust ridehieght and stiffness.In effect you would just be using the main spring.Thats okay though since every aftermarket zps spring setup I have seen uses a lower rate mainspring very close to Moto spring or even less.So buy that spring setup from 311racer and if it doesnt work for you I will buy it from you.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm