Warped Lug Nuts

Message

UpsMan · #11 Post by **UpsMan** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:05 pm

Post a pic of the rim. It sounds like it might have been loose.

Nickc711 · #12 Post by **Nickc711** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:10 pm

QUOTE (UpsMan @ Mar 12 2008, 09:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Post a pic of the rim. It sounds like it might have been loose.

[attachment=5956:IMG_0756.jpg]
[attachment=5955:IMG_0755.jpg]

MyCannibal · #13 Post by **MyCannibal** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:46 pm

Id be willing to bet that they weren't tightened down correctly...which caused slight movement and play.

UpsMan · #14 Post by **UpsMan** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:51 am

If the holes are still nice and not worn at all, I'd say they were way over tightened. Put them back on and run them, as long as they tighten up good. When you get new rims, get new lug nuts.

Canniboomer · #15 Post by **Canniboomer** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:30 pm

It seems the nuts may have been plenty tight, but came loose anyway. The wheel indents show uneven ridging at the perimeter of the nuts. In the first picture, it appears that the hex flats are tweaked clockwise from over-torqueing, and should probably be replaced.

Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starburst indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as keeping the wheel centered, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.

So OK,.... just to prove it

:, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:

16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com

or, add to any order for another $20

rayspeed · #16 Post by **rayspeed** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:42 pm

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Mar 13 2008, 11:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It seems the nuts may have been plenty tight, but came loose anyway. The wheel indents show uneven ridging at the perimeter of the nuts. In the first picture, it appears that the hex flats are tweaked clockwise from over-torqueing, and should probably be replaced.

Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starbust indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as centering the wheel, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.

So OK,.... just to prove it

:, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:

16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com

Is anyone else thinking that Dave just might have nords under all his nuts!

Canniboomer · #17 Post by **Canniboomer** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:57 pm

Yep, and they don't chafe either. But getting through airport security is awkward.

kdeal · #18 Post by **kdeal** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:02 pm

Nickc711 · #19 Post by **Nickc711** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:23 am

thanks guys

MI_CDALE_Rider · #20 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:26 pm

I just about blew diet coke thru my nose after reading rayspeed's post and Dave's reply...

Thanks for the laugh as I really needed it today ! :-)