I don't actually know how to make that comparison because I have only ever ridden my 400ex setup, not C-dale specific set of LT a-arms. Maybe some one else can help you with that. I just found that it gave me more options for a-arms and saved me some more on a used setup.
So it handles the same or better than a cdale specific arms from the same company? I don't want to go all out on an aftermarket set up if it doesn't handle better than stock.
I am currently running a set of 400ex houser +3 Long Travel arms w/the aluminum ball joint sleeves...I cant see why steel ones would have any advantage over the aluminum. Housers are also not camber adjustable. It seems to ride, turn, and jump great. Is there really a camber issue? How many degrees of camber is a dale supposed to have? Isnt camber and caster all just preference anyways???
caster and camber would only really need to be adjustable by the serious rider/racer. For most people out there, as long as it isn't way out of the ball park it'll ride just fine.
Aluminum taper adapters compress more than the stainless, and need to be periodically checked and re-tightened. Earlier Lonestar adapters were the softest and worst I think. But even Houser had changed to stainless for the later A-arm kits,....... but those kits are now discontinued. I believe I might have the remaining Houser stock of those improved Honda-shank adapters for Cannondales,..... $5 each.
A set of +1 Houser-for Cannondale A-Arms here are camber adjustable, FYI. I was not aware that any +3 Housers were not adjustable for camber?..... Maybe another member can chime in here, since some Cannondale +3 Arms are still in use out there.
But plenty of stock Cannondales have uneven camber, left vs. right side. Only the Moto arms were adjustable for camber, and I have seen those pre-set at about 3/8" negative camber (tire not wheel). The standard A-arms have been very consistent, so if a you have uneven camber?,..... you can instead blame the frame for slight variations in frame-hole position, or twisting, and double-check the shocks for unequal preload. Any frame issue would be easily corrected with most aftermarket A-Arms you will still find, since most of those have had adjustable Uppers.
I sold Gibson265R the Houser +3 setup and it is for a Cannondale not for a Honda. What Houser does is just use Honda tapered balljoints with the adapter sleeves to fit our spindles. They are indeed camber adjustable.
Great input guys....I run Houser +2+1 arms for 400ex w/ Cdale spindles, they work great in the woods (XC racing). The only problems I've had are with the Houser stem, +1+1....I've had touble with the bottom bearing-to-frame coming loose about an hour and a half into the race. Loctite hasn't helped and I'm wondering if this is common or something is off a bit....this is far-and-away, the best handling quad I've ever rode , although it's a little squirelly on top, ( don't breath on the bars touchy) . I run 4-1 offset wheels too, so it's pretty much stock width with the pivot points being different, really helps in the woods.
I have discovered the the rool design a-arms for an 400ex have the shock mount back on the a-arms a bit I found that using a honda style shock and the using spacers to slide the top of the shock back towards the drivers seat helps overcome this issue. (If you dont shim it you put a side load pn your shocks and they will likely fail early)