Wheels and Tires for Mx advice
The 450R wheels fit too. I'm running those all around and they work great. No more beating my rims back into shape after every ride. The honda rims do require different lug nuts. Also keep in mind the front honda wheels are a different offset and will thin up the front end ~2". Not sure what the offset of the front suzuki wheels are.
I figured I should chime in here now. If you're riding track a lot or racing, shouldn't you just go w/beadlocks. I picked up a set of the original Moto beadlocks like 2yrs ago for I think $150. You don't always find deals like that for ones in good shape but they can be found.
I raced quite awhile back on stockers and non beadlock rims and regretted not going w/beadlocks. They cause me to lose several races due to the tire coming off the bead or a hit which made the tire go flat.
My suggestion is just to go w/beadlocks. On tires it depends really on your preference. I ran some of the Kenda Klaw MX tires and didn't really like them. Put on some MXR4's and MX's and fell in love w/them. However, I prefer 18 in back and 19 in front. It just fits my preference. But 20" front is usually the way to go. It depends on how fast you want them to wear. My MXR4's did great and the next set is still doing great. They don't wear fast at all really, but the front MX's do fairly fast to warn you.
I raced quite awhile back on stockers and non beadlock rims and regretted not going w/beadlocks. They cause me to lose several races due to the tire coming off the bead or a hit which made the tire go flat.
My suggestion is just to go w/beadlocks. On tires it depends really on your preference. I ran some of the Kenda Klaw MX tires and didn't really like them. Put on some MXR4's and MX's and fell in love w/them. However, I prefer 18 in back and 19 in front. It just fits my preference. But 20" front is usually the way to go. It depends on how fast you want them to wear. My MXR4's did great and the next set is still doing great. They don't wear fast at all really, but the front MX's do fairly fast to warn you.
I'll agree with Psychosis a little, beadlocks are nice especially if your an 8" rear rim guy with loamy track conditions. But if you run 9" rims and keep the air pressure up (8lbs to 12lbs of pressure) you shouldnt have to much of a problem. I never have anyway. What I like about the Kendas is that we have such huge difference in track conditions and soil in the tracks. We go from sandy loose tracks to hard clay pack, or rocky clay sand mix. The differences are huge. The Kendas are much more versitile in those conditions. Its much easier to adjust tire pressure as well as the direction you run them. The decision is yours, I just thought I should explain why I stand behind Kendas on Bajas with such prejudice.
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theJeStEr1340
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QUOTE (Exodus @ Jun 2 2006, 03:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'll agree with Psychosis a little, beadlocks are nice especially if your an 8" rear rim guy with loamy track conditions. But if you run 9" rims and keep the air pressure up (8lbs to 12lbs of pressure) you shouldnt have to much of a problem. I never have anyway. What I like about the Kendas is that we have such huge difference in track conditions and soil in the tracks. We go from sandy loose tracks to hard clay pack, or rocky clay sand mix. The differences are huge. The Kendas are much more versitile in those conditions. Its much easier to adjust tire pressure as well as the direction you run them. The decision is yours, I just thought I should explain why I stand behind Kendas on Bajas with such prejudice.
Basically, my issue with current setup (I re-checked I have 20" ITP Holeshots) is our local track is really loose. They try to keep it watered down but that just makes more of a mess. Anyway, Im slippin and slidin through turns I think way too much. Ive tried to air down to gain some traction which helps but I still have no bite at all.
I see alot of Maxxis tires out here at our track.
Anyway its good to see a discussion like this it helps alot.
Mike
Heres a couple things to try.
1. A couple questions, what size rims are on those 20's? Is the bike pushing or is it really loose in the rear? The reason I ask is we need to figure out if you need more power making the turn or more bite on the front end. Theres a ton of little things to look at to really dial in corners.
2. OK, now having said all of that, take try these tips very carefully. Changing something here will effect the suspension in other places on the track.
3. Take a check on the front tire pressure and then lower the pressure in the front 1lb at a time. If the front end is pushing that will stop and the bike will want to turn very fast in the corner. Do not lower the pressure less than 5lbs on the front, you'll simply roll the tire off the beed and roll the bike.
4. Now for power, if the bike is fishtaling coming out of the corners then you are putting to much power into a slick track. Try using a Blaze map, or better one of the Blaze Traction maps. The power in these maps are less in the bottom coming on harder in the mid rpm. This all translates to a straighter shot out of the corner.
Theres just about a hundred more things we could change to make the bike hook out of the corner. These few things will get it started hopefully in the right direction.
1. A couple questions, what size rims are on those 20's? Is the bike pushing or is it really loose in the rear? The reason I ask is we need to figure out if you need more power making the turn or more bite on the front end. Theres a ton of little things to look at to really dial in corners.
2. OK, now having said all of that, take try these tips very carefully. Changing something here will effect the suspension in other places on the track.
3. Take a check on the front tire pressure and then lower the pressure in the front 1lb at a time. If the front end is pushing that will stop and the bike will want to turn very fast in the corner. Do not lower the pressure less than 5lbs on the front, you'll simply roll the tire off the beed and roll the bike.
4. Now for power, if the bike is fishtaling coming out of the corners then you are putting to much power into a slick track. Try using a Blaze map, or better one of the Blaze Traction maps. The power in these maps are less in the bottom coming on harder in the mid rpm. This all translates to a straighter shot out of the corner.
Theres just about a hundred more things we could change to make the bike hook out of the corner. These few things will get it started hopefully in the right direction.
I was having a little trouble recently hooking up in corners as well. Lowered the preload of the main springs on the shocks quite a bit, worked w/the comp/rebound, and it has gotten a whole world different. Tire pressure is a HUGE factor though. if you have too much or too little, you're going to have problems. Each track varies so do like said; adjust until it gets better.
Answer to question number would be stock ATK ITP? I believe they are 9" I will verify.
Ah question #4 I am fishtailing. Arse end just comes around way to fast and feels like Im just spinning my wheels. Ive tried throttle control and just feediing the clutch but it doesnt matter. Keep in mind im new to the track but since Ive been going I watch the guys and listen to their engines to get a feel for how they work it. Most guys are blipping throttle through these turns so thats what Ive been trying.
A different map and more practice may make a huge diff too.
Ah question #4 I am fishtailing. Arse end just comes around way to fast and feels like Im just spinning my wheels. Ive tried throttle control and just feediing the clutch but it doesnt matter. Keep in mind im new to the track but since Ive been going I watch the guys and listen to their engines to get a feel for how they work it. Most guys are blipping throttle through these turns so thats what Ive been trying.
A different map and more practice may make a huge diff too.
QUOTE (Exodus @ Jun 4 2006, 06:12 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Heres a couple things to try.
1. A couple questions, what size rims are on those 20's? Is the bike pushing or is it really loose in the rear? The reason I ask is we need to figure out if you need more power making the turn or more bite on the front end. Theres a ton of little things to look at to really dial in corners.
2. OK, now having said all of that, take try these tips very carefully. Changing something here will effect the suspension in other places on the track.
3. Take a check on the front tire pressure and then lower the pressure in the front 1lb at a time. If the front end is pushing that will stop and the bike will want to turn very fast in the corner. Do not lower the pressure less than 5lbs on the front, you'll simply roll the tire off the beed and roll the bike.
4. Now for power, if the bike is fishtaling coming out of the corners then you are putting to much power into a slick track. Try using a Blaze map, or better one of the Blaze Traction maps. The power in these maps are less in the bottom coming on harder in the mid rpm. This all translates to a straighter shot out of the corner.
Theres just about a hundred more things we could change to make the bike hook out of the corner. These few things will get it started hopefully in the right direction.
1. A couple questions, what size rims are on those 20's? Is the bike pushing or is it really loose in the rear? The reason I ask is we need to figure out if you need more power making the turn or more bite on the front end. Theres a ton of little things to look at to really dial in corners.
2. OK, now having said all of that, take try these tips very carefully. Changing something here will effect the suspension in other places on the track.
3. Take a check on the front tire pressure and then lower the pressure in the front 1lb at a time. If the front end is pushing that will stop and the bike will want to turn very fast in the corner. Do not lower the pressure less than 5lbs on the front, you'll simply roll the tire off the beed and roll the bike.
4. Now for power, if the bike is fishtaling coming out of the corners then you are putting to much power into a slick track. Try using a Blaze map, or better one of the Blaze Traction maps. The power in these maps are less in the bottom coming on harder in the mid rpm. This all translates to a straighter shot out of the corner.
Theres just about a hundred more things we could change to make the bike hook out of the corner. These few things will get it started hopefully in the right direction.
Sorry to beat a dead horse here. But I have more info and I am going to make some suspension corrections before I purchase wheels and tires. I have TCS Long Travel up front. Issue is that at the time of purchase I was 30 lbs heavier and only rode out in the desert. :-)
So, I am going to have Todd at TCS redo my setup and the rear shock as well. This way I know my suspension will be dialed in for me and my new riding style at the track instead of desert. He seemed
to think my setup could be too soft causing me to just push all over. But also I still believe that
the fishtailing is obviously a spinning rear wheel and perhaps a map change for some low grunt would be in order for that part of it.
Thanks a bunch guys.
So, I am going to have Todd at TCS redo my setup and the rear shock as well. This way I know my suspension will be dialed in for me and my new riding style at the track instead of desert. He seemed
to think my setup could be too soft causing me to just push all over. But also I still believe that
the fishtailing is obviously a spinning rear wheel and perhaps a map change for some low grunt would be in order for that part of it.
Thanks a bunch guys.