A arm bushings/sleeves and steering stem bearing

Message

Canniboomer · #11 Post by **Canniboomer** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:23 pm

Cranked down tight is as intended -- the steel inserts are longer than the black bushings for that reason. But if the A-arms continue to bind or drag after some break-in (good point!), that is a separate problem we may all have to address -- For example, by using 10mm shims between the 2 steel inserts, we could pinch the T-bushings tightly without binding the up/down movement of the arms. Or maybe the outer sides of the black bushings could use some sanding down, until they move freely with tight bolts. It's very likely that Cannondale may have been off by a few thousanths, so we should try to get it right. Maybe they did not account for powdercoat thickness at the edge of the arms, or something like that.... But with loosened thrubolts, you would also be wearing at the inner surface of the 8 frame lugs.

Our goal should be to wear out the wear parts (black bushings), and not the steel inserts, bolts, or frame.

jesshamner · #12 Post by **jesshamner** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:36 pm

I'm not sure if we're still talking about the same play in the arms. I don't have any front to back play. When I installed the bushings and the old sleeves/spacers, I didn't have much play there. It was when the bolt goes in I have side to side play. Basically I can widen the front end but about 1/8" or so. The sleeves don't fit the bolts or vice versa. Pinching will only solve that problem for the first few minutes until it loosens up a little...right?

Canniboomer · #13 Post by **Canniboomer** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:49 pm

You are up to about an 1/8" inch of side-to-side play because of excessive wear at the ID of the inserts, and the bolts they are racking on. With new bolts and inserts, there is still some minor slop to start with, but not as much as you indicate... and Tight bolts that stay tight will prevent that movement and future wear. But binding like Derno mentioned is not an acceptable result, either... I think we need some tweaking.

jesshamner · #14 Post by **jesshamner** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 pm

I just want to make it clear that it's about 1/8" total...meaning both sides. 1/16" for right side and same for left side.

cannondale27 · #15 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:44 am

Play between bolt and T-bushing is normal.Will not be a factor once the bolt is tightened to at least the torque manual calls for.Procedure I use is to mount the A-arms and shocks to frame loosely then with wheels on set quad back down on ground.This is natural position of quad and slop of bushings and bolts will be taken up to correct side.Then tighten all the bolts tightly.Raise quad back up and remove lower shock bolt cycle the suspension if it binds something is wrong as Canniboomer stated.Maybe a bushing isnt in all the way or paint under it or made incorrectly.Fix the problem do not loosen the mounting bolts.Then replace lower shock bolt with quad resting on ground.

jesshamner · #16 Post by **jesshamner** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:31 pm

What are the torque specs on those? Or where can I find them?

cannondale27 · #17 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:34 pm

Honestly I dont know.I just tighten them using Loctite as tight as my socket wrench or electric impact allows.Point is they are tight very tight.

jesshamner · #18 Post by **jesshamner** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 2:47 pm

cannondale27 · #19 Post by **cannondale27** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 3:51 pm

Fooled you.Here they are.

jesshamner · #20 Post by **jesshamner** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:28 pm

Cool. They're tight now! Thanks.