Warped Lug Nuts
QUOTE (UpsMan @ Mar 12 2008, 09:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Post a pic of the rim. It sounds like it might have been loose.
[attachment=5956:IMG_0756.jpg]
[attachment=5955:IMG_0755.jpg]
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It seems the nuts may have been plenty tight, but came loose anyway. The wheel indents show uneven ridging at the perimeter of the nuts. In the first picture, it appears that the hex flats are tweaked clockwise from over-torqueing, and should probably be replaced.
Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starburst indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as keeping the wheel centered, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.
So OK,.... just to prove it :, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:
16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com
or, add to any order for another $20
Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starburst indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as keeping the wheel centered, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.
So OK,.... just to prove it :, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:
16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com
or, add to any order for another $20
QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Mar 13 2008, 11:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It seems the nuts may have been plenty tight, but came loose anyway. The wheel indents show uneven ridging at the perimeter of the nuts. In the first picture, it appears that the hex flats are tweaked clockwise from over-torqueing, and should probably be replaced.
Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starbust indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as centering the wheel, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.
So OK,.... just to prove it :, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:
16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com
Anyway, also consider spending another $5 for 8 pcs of my flange-size Nord camlocks, or $10 for a set of 16. They work great to lock the nuts, and protect the wheel. Under the nuts, all you will get is a starbust indentation, and the wheels are locked firmly. The wheel surface won't shimmy in relation to the studs, and the boltholes won't get larger over time. As far as centering the wheel, they are the next best thing to using tapered nuts and wheels, but have the added benefit of not coming loose. Normal torque is adequate in this application -- just note that they will be about 10% harder to remove, from the locking action.
So OK,.... just to prove it :, here's a FORUM SPECIAL thru March:
16 lugnuts, and 16 camlocks, $25 shipped Paypal only pacrimdm@msn.com
Is anyone else thinking that Dave just might have nords under all his nuts!
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