Cannondaleriders

I'm all about custom fabricating stuff and testing and tuning it out. Its the best way to learn.

This is wrong. LT has to deal with the travel the arm can go up and down, not the location of the shock. The long shocks ONLY makes it easier to tune the shock.

I made some LT std shock arms a long time ago, I even saw them up for sale recently on ebay. Its a pretty costly thing to do when done correctly, but can be done.

I'll find the thread or picks tonight.

That is what I was trying to say. If the shock can't move throughout it's entire stroke, it is not working properly. Wrong shock angles can cause binding, and bent shafts. The entire geometry of the a arm has to be considered so you can figure out what shock needs to be used.

You can't go buy a set of 20" long travel shocks, chop your a arms to add length, and expect the suspension to function properly. I mean, it can be done, but doesn't mean it will function properly.

I'm just trying to say that it's not as simple as chopping a shockmount and locating it for whatever length shock. Relocating a shockmount will make the shock fit, but is not the way to do it right.

you can use a "std travel" (just a current marketing definition) shock and have its stroke set to use on a set of arms with LT ball joints. This would in turn give you "LT" suspension. The whole move to longer shocks and calling them LT is nothing more than marketing to sell you more expensive shocks. If you can get the full stroke out of a 16" shock then what do you gain from a 19" shock? Larger item to tune, more fluid to run cooler....anything else?

Aren't the blaze and moto shocks the same but have the stroke limited? I know 27 is around here, speak up man!

I know that I never went to LT because I didn't really hit jumps that needed LT. In fact I had the same setup as another local dale guy the only diff was mine was std travel and his was LT. I could not tell the difference between the two, however I am not the best rider. I do know that there are some a-arms out there that not the greatest quality, that is why you pay extra for the good stuff. Or in my case just about giving the good stuff away.

holy smokes hard to find!! here yah go

I remember when you did that... man seems like it's been forver

yeah it does....saw them on ebay month or 2 ago, even tried to buy them but the guy wanted to much out of em. I was trying to low ball him on my own arms!! Really he said the ball joints were loose and at $50 per joint, they aren't worth much.

Yea 10 inches of travel is 10 inches whether its long travel or not.The biggest thing a long shock does is uses more shock stroke which is easier to tune.Shaft speeds are slower which also make it easier to tune.It also can be more progressive depending on angle it is mounted.I would hope in designing a a-arm all the shock travel is used before binding in either case.That is reason Moto shocks were shortened by Cannondale in the end.For different things I prefer different setups.I find handling is better with my LSR +2 std travel arms but my LSR +3 Long Travels work better in really big stuff.

MX and trails=Long shock
TT,Ovals and trail=Std Shock long travel

We have done a +2 conversion on the stock a-arms. We used a mold the get the ball-joints at the correct place and angle.
So far no problem with the arms, and I do ride hard, bottomed out on big jumps a few times.

The shock mount is in the stock location, wich result in more wheel travel.