Cannondaleriders

Here is the second pic

In my opinion you have way too big of a gap.It probably rides real nice but rolls in the corners and will bottom out.
You need to flip the crossover around so the end without threads is at the top.Then adjust it upward by tuning the nuts counterclockwise till at least 8 threads are showing at the top of the nuts when they are tightened against one another.The way you have it that main spring(yellow one )barely is working before it is bottomed out.If the springs are loose move the clip one notch down you dont want to take a chance on the retainer at the bottom of the shock falling out.
Moving the clip down will raise the quad slightly doing what I said with the crossover wont change your height at all.At least not when sitting on it.

These shocks have been revalved by South Bay Moto. My shocks don't bottom out. If I don't have this size gap, my quad will sit a lot higher when I ride. These were revalved so that I don't have roll in corners. I weight 220 pounds and ride in the expert/pro class. I want to get the QuadShop conversion, but I can't do it for a while. I am wanting these shocks to work well for me until I can get that CONVERSION SETUP.

Thanks

hey moto man, what scoop/ rad guard is that? aand where can i pick one of them up? looks nice

Radiator guard was made by me and the scoops were made by a friend of mine here in Houston. The scoops are made out of stainless steel. He didn't make any in bulk, just one for myself.

Yeah if you want lower ride height that is way to go.

You definatly don't have enough pre-load on the springs, thats why the tender spring cut-off sleeves are moving. They need to always be pre-loaded a little. And I would do exactly as Cannondale27 says. The cutoffs are used to control roll and you can get away with a little higher ride height if the cutoffs are set up right. How did Southbay re-valve? Have you played with the compression adjustment? Adjusting the low speed compression helps roll quite a bit, but you'll have to find a balance between stability and harshness.

It is difficult to lower the ride height with the stock a-arms and the stock shocks. If you just get a spring setup that allows for more sag you just end up losing up-travel. For example I think the Moto with the shocks bottomed metal to metal has 2.5-3" ground clearance. If you lower your ride height to 8" with no rider you only have 5" of up travel! It's best that the setup sits approx 1" from the ground to the frame rails with the shocks bottomed metal to metal. This way at 8" ride height you have 7" of up travel and approx 4" sag which works really well.

The stock a-arms are designed around a 450mm-300mm eye to eye shock. If you go to a 435mm-285mm (the right way to do it) eye to eye shock you have a greater chance of binding the ball joints.

If enough people are interested I'll look into designing an adapter kit for the stock a-arms that'll allow you to use different length shocks. I won't promise anything but I have an idea.

Hope this helps.

Are you talking about using the stock Blaze shocks instead of Moto shocks for best results? Would this adapter you are talking about allow the Moto shocks to work in the same manner as using the Blaze shocks. I love the handling the shocks give me. They just need some tweaking and I am trying to get lower to the ground to go FASTER in CORNERS. SB did change the low speed compression to fix the roll issue. He left that big gap to lower the ride height, but actually I sit a little higher now than before I sent them to SB. What would have to be done to fix the back to match the setup of the front. My back shock was revalved also, but the main spring wasn't changed.
Thanks for everyones help:D :clap: