Bleed your brakes!!

[Sandstorm]

Break the seal on master cylinder. Don't pull the lid off, just break the seal. Pull lever to grip and strap to grip. Walk away.. 12-24hrs later come back, cut zip tie, tighten up cap on rezzy and your done. This will work 100% of the time and make your brakes 100% affective.. No waste of fluid, no bleeder needed, no two guys, just your existing fluid, zip tie, phillips screwdriver, and one minute of your time..

[cannondale27]

That ziptie method didnt work on mine.But I was starting out with no fluid anywhere.I remember at Cannondale they had all the brake systems put together and hanging in a rack to bleed them.

[MI_CDALE_Rider]

But in the case where you have a normal full front brake system the method Sand storm posted would seem to be pretty painless and the actual hightest point on the quad.

[Canniboomer]

easier way?...good method Haydug, but can't we get the exact same result by raising entire front end of quad until bleeders are higher?, then just rotating master cylinder to level (much easier, can keep the wheels on, no spacers or new threadlocker, etc.) , and then bleeding.....right? will this work same?

..with Sandstorms method, exact opposite and better to raise the rear end to get more of the caliper cavity expelled of all possible air, level the master, and check for any high spots en route to the master cylinder.

In any case, very happy to have this forewarning, and thanks for the subject and tips.

[fyrmedic]

I've done it a few times like Sand said, works great every time, and no oily mess!!!

[cdrookie]

zip tie method never worked for me:confused:

[Canniboomer]

...maybe you had a high loop in the lines near the calipers, causing an air trap --- sounds like Sandstorm method works great for many, but that air would just be gradually "floating" upward and out, and cannot float downward of course....maybe it all depends on exacly where the air is, and so picking up the rear would likely accelerate the bleed, and make sure the entire length is constantly upward toward the vented (cracked) master.

Or, just raising the quad up on a stand to let the A-Arms hang lower might be enough, just something to watch.

[Sandstorm]

Air will come out wherever it is allowed. Doesn't matter if it's high or low..

[nuge]

I had compromised front brakes - no resistance on brake lever, not even spongy. Tried the "passive" approach with bungied lever and cracked MC lid (24 hrs, twice) - no luck. Tried pump, hold, bleed, repeat with calipers in standard position - no luck; tried same with calipers raised one bolt position as Haydug suggested - no luck. Finally, tried same with front-end raised & quad resting on grab bar - worked like a charm. Had to work each side, back and forth. Brakes got spongy right away then tightened up after several reps.

I guess one solution doesn't work for every brake problem, but in the end I found the answer that worked for me by searching this site. Thanks!!

Nuge

[cannondale27]

Another thing to add and cause of air in brakes sometimes.The lines on stockers should be routed straight back rather than up.This helps prevent the line from loosening when a branch or grass hits it.Especially left side since there is no stop for the Banjo fitting to rest against.