Page 4 of 10

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:04 pm
by Jaybr
I've done this at least a half dozen times in the last few months, and I've gotten pretty good at it.


Lower ball, I put the front end on a jack and can usually get it to pop loose by loosening the nut and tapping(very hard) on the side of the spndle with a hammer. You have to use a regular hammer, a non-metal mallet won't work.

If that doesn't work, I loosen the nut until it is a couple threads off the shaft, then put a punch on the shaft and hammer that, keep hitting it and it will pop.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:11 pm
by cannondale27
I use a alternator pulley puller about $15 at autostores.At the shop we have a puller from Cannondale that also works well.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:21 pm
by Jaybr
QUOTE
Originally posted by cannondale27
I use a alternator pulley puller about $15 at autostores.At the shop we have a puller from Cannondale that also works well.


You mean there is actually a tool for this job?

In my garage, I can do anything with a pair of vice grips and a couple different size hammers:hammer: :rotf

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:31 pm
by DMAC10
I got a couple of the ball joints from ATK. They had the rings on the boots. Keep those things greased and check them often.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:34 pm
by cannondale27
Yeah actually the lower ones I usually do just like you do.Lot quicker.We had to change alot of them with the recall the tool really worked nice to put them back in without damaging them also.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 12:15 am
by bknight
will got it by [ tapping(very hard) on the side of the spndle with a hammer. You have to use a regular hammer, a non-metal mallet won't work. thanks jaybr and 27 Ryanstones


no grease in the bottem one sume in the top not much

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 4:03 am
by 4strokemadman
The problem may not be in the ball joint at all. If the a-arms were not properly reamed and the bore is too tight this will cause extremely fast wear on the ball joints. If there is any rip or small hole in the boot this will cause extremely fast wear of the ball joint. There was a little clip added at the top of the boot to seal the boot against the ball joint spindle. If this clip isn't there I suggest adding a small zip tie or a small wireclip (be sure not to damage the rubber boot!!).

The upper ball joint on the moto a-arm is longer. This is to keep camber gain at approx 2 degrees and to help lower the amount of ball joint articulation.

Hope this helps.

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:40 pm
by NRath
QUOTE
Originally posted by Ryanstones
this was After His plan of loading the suspension by standing on the bumper and Whacking didn't work out.


Back up, Chumley. The lower ball joints popped right out of the spindle when we had you standing on the bumper(loading the fornt end), and I tapped on the top of the ball joint stud with a hammer via a long 3/8" extension. I was surprised how easily they came out. We then used the vise with large sockets to push out and press in the new ball joints into the arm.

ooops, you know i'm a mechanical genius.

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:42 pm
by Ryanstones
:whip:

Ball Joints

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 11:10 pm
by Brad Oakley
Hello ya'll,
I'm the purchasing manager here at ATK. I also own two ATVs, a highly modified Cannibal (It helps when you know where the parts are) and a Moto that is, for the time being, stock. I've been reading with interest the problems you've been having with the ball joints. I am contacting the manufacturer to see what they say. I'm also looking at the inventory that we have to make sure that no "bad" ball joints get out there. Please forward any specific information that you have on the ball joints you have - both good ones and bad - especially their physical apperance. This will help me determine if there is an easy to tell good from bad. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks!