pic's of the insides of a shock, please?

Message

Canniboomer · #31 Post by **Canniboomer** » Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:17 am

Thanks for analyzing those shocks, Steve. I was quite surprised to learn that a change from the basic Speed/Cannibal shock to the Glamis shock would mean replacing darn near every single internal shim and valve! But hey, that's why we did the project, to learn the difference. Great info!

We know now that the parts cost alone will be much higher than first expected. Still, it's not too bad, and we hope to offer that particular upgrade quite reasonable in the near future.

cannondale27 · #32 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:13 am

If you remember a while back I said Blaze shock can be converted to long travel cheaply since there are enoght spacers internally to equal a Moto shock in length if they are removed.Well I just did another set and these did not have enough spacers to do this.Maybe Ohlins ran out of shafts or something???

cn2710/110741 approx 16 1/4" OL
7/8" spacer(plastic)
17 1/8 max length

cn2710/10343 approx 16 1/4"ol
2 3/4" Aluminum spacers
19 max length

Here is a pic of one I did today.

cannondale27 · #33 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:20 am

If these spacers are removed you end up with a longer shock.The set I did which could be made to 19" had a longer shaft same length as a moto and 2 3/4 worth of aluminum spacers.

MX Quad Dad · #34 Post by **MX Quad Dad** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:24 am

I hope thats all they did to my Moto shocks when I sent them in and had them shortened

cannondale27 · #35 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:23 pm

Ran into another different Moto shock.Most are #cn2730 these are #cn3730.Number is on top of shock.
This number has spacers in it 2730 doesnt.Shock length is 18.75" for the 3730.If you look closely you can see the compression valve stack is dual stage meaning two stacks of shims pyramid shaped.Some shocks have 3stages and some have just one.Staging and shimming are a art and what you pay the professionals for.Out of my league.

cannondale27 · #36 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:59 pm

Shock maintainence
It is considered normal maintainence to have the oil changed on your shocks.Ohlins uses very good oil but especially the rear which is working very hard and has less oil than alot of shocks needs to be redone as often as possible if racing.Most local A riders do it twice a year so judge your schedule off that.All depends on how you ride and what conditions.
Here is a few tips to increase the service life of your Ohlins greatly.
Right where the shaft goes into the body there is a gold cap.If you look at pic it is obvious there is a big gap around the shaft in that cap.Every time your shock travels up it caries any dirt/sand on the shaft up into that gap.Underneath that cap is a wiper.It is not a seal but looks like one.Seal is underneath that and is a X-ring design.The less dirt that the wiper has to deal with the longer your seal will last.A little seepage does occur all the time but you will know when seal fails.Oil will be all over the bumpstop.
So trick one when done riding shoot a little bit of soap in that gap to try and flush some dirt out.DONT USE PRESSURE.
Trick two remove the cap and manualy clean it out every so often.It is easy to do on Moto or Blaze shocks.I would not bother on speed ones.Just remove shock spring,mount shock, shaft up in a vice with soft jaws and using a aluminum punch go around cap on groove four or five spots to get it off as even as possible.Pop it off and clean.Put it back on using a plastic mallet.
Shock covers or guards such as Quadtech has would help greatly but shock covers also keep heat in which breaks down the oil.
Trick 3 and the simplest ones.Everytime you are done riding lift up the bumpstop and clean all the dirt and sand that has accumulated between bumpstop and shaft and under it.You would be surprised how much that bumpstop compresses everytime it does dirt can be driven up into that cap.Dont compress suspension when trailering use tiedowns to axle and around front wheels.ZPS equiped quads store quad with support lifting frame up.150-250psi in these shocks when compessed it is WAAY greater than that.Also be careful with any acid based cleaners.Work great on frame but will trash the chrome on shock shaft.$135 for a shaft! Hope this helps save some headaches.
Here is the cap I am talking about.And here is dirt that accumulates.Yes Tim this one is yours!Top one is Canniboomers.Very clean and looked new on outside but full of sand on inside.Seal was leaking and wore.
Will repost pics in rest of thread soon.

cannondale27 · #37 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu May 29, 2008 1:32 pm

Here is some of the pics that are lost.
Blaze Shock
[attachment=6370:Blaze_shock_001.jpg]
Glamis Shock valving
[attachment=6371:Halloween_031.jpg]
Dirty shock(clean this to save seals)
[attachment=6372:muddy_001.jpg]
Ohlins rear shock
[attachment=6373:ohlins_r...hock_001.jpg]
TCS and Elka Ohlins
[attachment=6374:TCS_Elka..._valving.jpg]

quadracer500 · #38 Post by **quadracer500** » Thu May 29, 2008 6:43 pm

Steve, is the white plastic on the blaze shock the spacer to convert to moto shocks?

cannondale27 · #39 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri May 30, 2008 12:20 am

Yes.Some blaze shock have the spacers but some dont.

Kuma · #40 Post by **Kuma** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:13 am

Are there any instructions for rebuilding the rear shock? And part numbers for seals and oil capacity?