Tierod End Bolts?

[RetroZ]

Does anyone know where I can do a batch buy on the bolts and spacers? Did Cannondale out source these or make them in house? I'd take something similiar if someone knows of something else. Thanks.

[4strokemadman]

These were custom bolts made in house by Cannondale. It is very important that these bolts are made from the right material with the right heat treat process. We went through a ton of testing and ended up with the current design. If enough people are interested I can see about having them made, there will be tooling involved but I wouldn't think the tooling would cost more than $1,000.00.

-Paul

[DangerRanger]

Two fixes, find some in stock, or do what should have been done from the start and buy the 400ex tie rod assemblies, they will bolt right up, they will actually last, and easier to find.


PS The Quadshop sells boots that will help them last longer and hold grease.


Ben

[4strokemadman]

One thing to watch out for with the Honda tie rod ends, they have less articulation than the current set-up (thats why we couldn't use them). As long as you have no binding issues you should be ok. Do not use any other tie rod ends other than the Honda ones. The current tie rod ends go about 250,000 cycles in testing before failure. The hondas go about 60,000 cycles the other mfrs go about 20,000 which is way too low. When I mean failure I mean failure of the stud (I know the current ones wear out way before then but people will use the same stud on multiple rod ends).

-Paul

[RetroZ]

I'm currently selling a teflon/kevlar sealed tierod end that has been working great. Everyone is real happy with them. What I'm wanting to do now is sell tie rods and ends (male ends vrs the female) for the Z400 and KFXs. Their tierods are a big weakpoint. In order to make them fit I have to come up with a bolt system like the Cannondale. The Dales are a little bigger bolt, but someone can easily drill out their holes. That's why I would like to buy a batch of the dale bolts/spacers.

[DangerRanger]

The less articulation only applied to the older model stems correct? Once the tie-rod plate was changed it helped with binding issues? I like the factories better if you seal them up right they do hold up better than the hondas, but only after being sealed.

PS Reto, those are mil-spec race heims right? We used the same style on our indy light racer.

Ben

[4strokemadman]

The new stems helped articulation maybe a little. But the stem still turns +/- 42 degrees and the a-arms still go through the same angle those are the biggest factors for articulation. The major benefit of the new stems is less bumpsteer. You race Indy lights?

-Paul

[DangerRanger]

Gotta drive alot ofpractice rounds, (SCCA Comp Member), got into it after doing SCCA solo stuff for a couple years. I ran with Chris Crowley for a while, my main expertise was the electrical systems and chassis. got into the racing scene in HS and through college race teams, I am one of the 8 founding desiners/members of the Formula Electric Series. Lola style chasis, carbon bodied, indy copies, that are fully electric(batteries), run 150+ mph. had 9 races a year then, and I think it is up to 14 races now (Phoenix, Indy, Winchester, Bonneville, Vegas, and a couple other big ones, along with a few small road courses) It would run for three or four laps @ that speed and then pit crew would change 4500lbs worth of batteries in under 30sec, alot of fun. Nothing like oversized RC cars going 150+ with no noise but a small motor wine, and the brakes and tires scrubbing being the most noise they make. Sorry to run off on a tangent.

PS Paul...did Steve M talk to you this week? I was trying to locate something, and he thought you were the man to talk to.


Ben

[RetroZ]

Ben, your pretty close. These are basically the same just beefed up a little.

Sounds like alot of fun running those indy lights!

[Knight440]

Hey Ben Ya wouldn't happen to have a pic of one of the cars?