What is the differance between the 2 styles of A-arms (Pointed and rounded) that C-Dale put on the quads? which one is better and is there any differance between the 2? I know I just read it somewhere but I can not seem to find it.
Thanks
A-arm Style
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hnnblehscnnble
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Canniboomer
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The later 2003 A-arms actually used the same balljoints -- but the cups were not distorted, so there has been much less tendency for the shafts to pop out! The joints would still fail if allowed to wear too much, but the 2003's can pop out without any wear. I know of three instances here in Oregon, where a joint came apart on a "low-hour" 2003 machine!
Both versions are very strong, but the earlier 2002 round-ends with the lollipop cups have more clearance to use shockwears (without rubbing), don't hold a puddle of water or mud when parked, don't rust as fast, and are much easier to change the balljoints. Cannondale provided a pressing tool for the 2001/2's, but no tool is available for the weird 2003's, and it's quite difficult to improvise... For those, you would need a hydraulic press and plastic blocking, etc. to avoid damaging the powdercoat or joints during an install, and should add in the cost of "re-trueing" the pockets at a local machine shop.
If you have the sharp-end 2003 A-arms, I'd really suggest to just wear out the balljoints (at your own risk), and change to the 2002's, or ANYTHING else.
While over in Europe, I found that they only had the 2002 round-end version there. I think Cannondale had sent them the remaining stock when they made the change here.... I was lucky to come back with several perfect new sets, and they all have the latest Cdale balljoints with the springs around the shaft boots, and new bushings installed. In fact, the production date on the A-Arms are August of 2002, when Cannondale was already turning out 2003 models here with the later A-arms.
Anyway, for less than $200 shipped, those are a great deal right now:
4 balljoints, 4 circlips, 4 ss cotters, 16 bushings, 4 new arms, and all assembled in Cannondale packing (new, not take-offs).
Both versions are very strong, but the earlier 2002 round-ends with the lollipop cups have more clearance to use shockwears (without rubbing), don't hold a puddle of water or mud when parked, don't rust as fast, and are much easier to change the balljoints. Cannondale provided a pressing tool for the 2001/2's, but no tool is available for the weird 2003's, and it's quite difficult to improvise... For those, you would need a hydraulic press and plastic blocking, etc. to avoid damaging the powdercoat or joints during an install, and should add in the cost of "re-trueing" the pockets at a local machine shop.
If you have the sharp-end 2003 A-arms, I'd really suggest to just wear out the balljoints (at your own risk), and change to the 2002's, or ANYTHING else.
While over in Europe, I found that they only had the 2002 round-end version there. I think Cannondale had sent them the remaining stock when they made the change here.... I was lucky to come back with several perfect new sets, and they all have the latest Cdale balljoints with the springs around the shaft boots, and new bushings installed. In fact, the production date on the A-Arms are August of 2002, when Cannondale was already turning out 2003 models here with the later A-arms.
Anyway, for less than $200 shipped, those are a great deal right now:
4 balljoints, 4 circlips, 4 ss cotters, 16 bushings, 4 new arms, and all assembled in Cannondale packing (new, not take-offs).