Tie Rod Ends

[2000ex]

I am pleased to announce that I have placed my order for the 1/2-20 male heims and aluminum rods. ALSO through another company have ordered everyones preferred setup which is their sealed automotive style rod ends mated to their off the shelf male solid steel tierod. I will thoroughly test both setups for a while and report my findings.

Unfortunately in order to keep the stock dimensions the same with the sealed version, I had to go with a slightly smaller 3/8 - 24 thread tierod. From their specs and me taking the stock specs it looks like it will work PERFECTLY. The dimensions on the stud and the height of the end on the 1/2-20 thread would have not fit our spindles and would have hit the frame near the stem.

The rods, jamnuts, and ends ended up costing me under $50 for the set for the sealed units plus shipping so it is surely affordable.

I will post some pics as soon as everything arrives...then the beatings will begin

[Canniboomer]

The 3/8" thread is just a bit skimpy compared to our full 10mm bolts and bores, though I would agree it's maybe worth a try. For locking them?..... the shanks may be long enough to add 2 Nord camlocks on each shank, and to also prevent side-shift of the shanks in the slightly looser-fit holes. I have plenty of the Nord-Locks in stock, and at lower prices than McMaster, FYI.

Using our same full 10mm, but in a COARSE thread is easier to source, but they are only 17 threads per inch, and may be no better than using 3/8-24. So trying a 3/8-24 setup is tempting.

In trying to go in the same general direction, I had picked up some 10mm fine-thread female ball-ends to test.....they will need some M10x1.25 male rods to suit, which I don't have yet.
But I would also like to find some 10mm fine balljoints in a male-male version, to use with female aluminum rods. I had made an inquiry last week to this company in Germany. It's an interesting read:

http://www.fluro.de/e_index.htm

[2000ex]

In specing out the female sealed rod ends the rod is .375 vs our .500 which should not cause them to be that much weaker. Our stock rods are VERY strong.

There should not be too much slop in .375 vs 10mm. I have a digital caliper here and the stock threded bolt I measured is under 10mm. The difference may be a half a mm which when tightened down should not be noticeable, I may even put some green loctite on there for kicks

I will see how it pans out, but the nordlocks may be a nice insurance piece

[cannondale27]

Appreciate you guys trying these out.Sounds very promising.

[peterock]

.120 Wall 5/8 inch Aircraft Grade Steel Tubing With Precision TIG Welded Stainless Steel Threaded
Ends.

This is an example of what they will look like. Lifetime guarantee as well against bending and breaking. Will take a picture of the actual ones once I have them.


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[2000ex]

Pete, are those from American Star?

[peterock]

Yes they are. They are basically yamaha profile with the honda straight shank.

[2000ex]

The female ends look like they are much bigger than the male ends. The body where it threads in looks very wide, and it may hit on the side of the flag near full turn. I had a set of ends that did this and needed to grind them down to fit. The male ends look promising as it appears from the picture anyhow they are a much lower profile.

Let us know how they work!

[peterock]

I'll let you know and take a pic. The ones I'm getting are for the long travel set-up so if they clear we shouldn't have any issues with the standard travel a-arms.

[peterock]

Got them in today. They are actually the smaller profile male ends. I can't see any reason why these won't work. I plan on making a larger order of these as they definitely seem like the ticket. If you are interested let me know extended a-arms or standard. I'll work on a price tomorrow.

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