Due to a lack of ANYONE building these arms for us, I am modifying the stock '02 style arms to accept a long travel 19 inch shock. I have been sitting on this project for a while and finally had some time to work on it this weekend.
The setup will feature Canniboomer's Honda style balljoints so they are assured of having a long life.
The stock balljoints, original shock mount tube, and bottom plate have been removed and mock up has begun. I am shooting for the same leverage ratio as the stock arms, and why not? The geometry is fine, the issue with these has ALWAYS been the crap balljoints.
All that will need to be done is to weld in a new 1 inch OD .120 wall tubing to set the mounting location. This is the typical type setup for virtually all long travel front ends where the shock mount is actually lower than the lower a-arm tubing. I will also be boxing the lower mount in with some plate for a shock skidplate so the lower shock eyelet and tube is not getting smashed.
Total cost is probably under $10 in chromoly plus the balljoint kit and several hours of labor. I will snap some pics and get them up to show my progress.
+1 or Stock Width LT Front End
I understand that. I am not after additional wheel travel...I am after another long travel setup for a narrow front end. Long travel as you stated is not dictated by the shock so perhaps it should be called a long shock setup.
I have several sets of 18.75 - 19 inch shocks and only one set of decent standard travel shocks. The ride quality of a long travel shock can be made far superior to a comparable 16 inch shock with MUCH less R&D. More spring options, more oil, the valving does not need to be as critically perfect to get it to work as well, etc, etc, etc.
The only other option would be to call Houser and beg them to make a set for me at over $800.
Why not modify what I already have sitting in a storage box collecting dust for an additional few dollars then spend a fortune to have someone make them for me? Seems like a no brainer to me.
I have several sets of 18.75 - 19 inch shocks and only one set of decent standard travel shocks. The ride quality of a long travel shock can be made far superior to a comparable 16 inch shock with MUCH less R&D. More spring options, more oil, the valving does not need to be as critically perfect to get it to work as well, etc, etc, etc.
The only other option would be to call Houser and beg them to make a set for me at over $800.
Why not modify what I already have sitting in a storage box collecting dust for an additional few dollars then spend a fortune to have someone make them for me? Seems like a no brainer to me.
If your looking for the same wheel travel the front springs will have to be considerably softer as well as the valving. The lower mount is going to be well below the arms as well. I built a set of lowers for an asr plus 2 setup with moto shocks but went made then 12 inches of wheel travel instead of stock. It was a pain just had to bend a piece of cromoly and was still able to mount the lower eye just below the top of the lower arms. Its a tight one getting the bolts in an I had to grind a side off the bolt flange. I didnt have to revalve either but also made them triple rate. Cushy smushy ride for the whooped out winter trails.
There is no way of making the wheel travel much longer with these balljoints and the angle of the tubing welded on the stock setup. With them bolted up max up travel on them was 17 inches eye to eye in the stock location. Just slightly longer than the Blaze shocks. The other option to increase travel is looking at the angled instead of straight shank upper ball joints to allow for more articulation.
The lower mount will actually be even lower than your tab location Wistech. It will be the standard bolt through the tube setup most LT arms have. The shock angle will be IDENTICAL to the stock location just followed lower on the same plane to accomodate the longer shock.
Spring rate and valving should be very close because the shock angle will not change. You will really start to notice that problem with springing and valving more when you start making major changes with the angle of the shock.
The lower mount will actually be even lower than your tab location Wistech. It will be the standard bolt through the tube setup most LT arms have. The shock angle will be IDENTICAL to the stock location just followed lower on the same plane to accomodate the longer shock.
Spring rate and valving should be very close because the shock angle will not change. You will really start to notice that problem with springing and valving more when you start making major changes with the angle of the shock.
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I think what wistech is saying, is that if you take shocks made for +2 arms, put them on standard arms, they'll be way to stiff because the leverage ratio is way different. Yes, you are moving the mounts, so they'll fit, but the springs won't allow the shock to compress the same. I assume you want this for xc, so you would want an even softer ride than what you would have for mx, so I'm pretty sure you'd want much cushier springs..... You haven't changed the leverage ratio of the stock a-arms, but you are using shocks made for a different leverage ratio....c27 can elaborate.
Pretty nice price on those Jacob.
Honestly I like the project and building new things. I can build 3 sets with balljoints for under $400.
For those wondering, I measured the wheel travel with these Boomer balljoints and the mechanical maximum of them is 10.5 inches. This was measured with no stem or tierods mounted. I am not sure if they will hit the frame before maximum down travel.
Honestly I like the project and building new things. I can build 3 sets with balljoints for under $400.
For those wondering, I measured the wheel travel with these Boomer balljoints and the mechanical maximum of them is 10.5 inches. This was measured with no stem or tierods mounted. I am not sure if they will hit the frame before maximum down travel.