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Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:51 pm
by haulinit
I was would like to know to properly adjust my rear shock on the dale. I was out chasing my little brother around a MX track this weekend and was really wishing I could get the rear end to quit kicking like a mule over the breaking bumps. It does it at high speeds. It is a factory Ohlins that has been gone through by Elka and is ZPS'ed.

Thanks
Shawn

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 6:53 pm
by who_gives_a6
There's multiple things to mess with to attempt to cure this. Compression/rebound would be you first thing. By bucking you need to know exactly what it's doing which you can by the feel of it. It could be that you're compressing the rear shock and the rebound isn't fast enough to get it back up before the next bump. This causes it to bottom and buck after a couple bumps/whoops. In that case, try speeding up the rebound.

However, it could also be that your compression is too hard to start with, which will also buck you around since it's bouncing rather than soaking up the bumps. In this case, lighten up the compression.

Those are a couple basics. You need to play around with it to dial it in. Takes seconds to hop off and adjust a few clicks. When properly setup the rear end on these quads is phenomenal. Also consider the weight/valving it was setup for too. If a 220lb woods rider had it setup and you're a 150lb motocrosser, it's not going to be in your favor as is.

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:23 pm
by haulinit
Which screws do what? Is there a high speed and a low speed like the dirt bikes suspension? I'm going to be doing mostly hare scrambles with the quad. Even then if you hit a tree laying across the path it kicks the rear end up and try's to punt you over the handle bars. The guy I bought it from was about the same size as me.

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:31 pm
by Happyboy
Black knob on the bottom of the shock is the rebound, there is a screw off the side of the reserve that is the compression. There is a little hole in the plastic that you access that screw from.


http://www.cannondaleriders.com/tech/Ohlin...951-6001126.pdf

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:37 pm
by haulinit
Thanks everybody, will have to check your link out Happy.

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:03 pm
by Brad77
Also would like to add. Make some notes on these settings. If you just start turning knobs and riding you may lose track of what you have changed.
I like to set a base point. So I will turn my clickers all the way in counting the clicks until it stops. Make a note of the number of clicks. Then I will back it out and may move it one more or less click than before. Do this with the compression and rebound.

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:09 pm
by haulinit
QUOTE (Brad77 @ Apr 2 2012, 04:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Also would like to add. Make some notes on these settings. If you just start turning knobs and riding you may lose track of what you have changed.
I like to set a base point. So I will turn my clickers all the way in counting the clicks until it stops. Make a note of the number of clicks. Then I will back it out and may move it one more or less click than before. Do this with the compression and rebound.


Great point Brad!

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:26 pm
by who_gives_a6
One nore note to add is that you will have different adjustments for different riding areas if you want best ridability. If you're on a track it will be different than in the woods, as will be dunes and such. Keep notes as mentioned when you adjust. Takes some time, but you'll get the hang of it once you see the changes each adjuster makes.

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:39 am
by haulinit
Thanks guys I will have to tinker with it.

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:31 am
by Haz-Matt
What's the recommended sag height for long travel and standard travel?