Swing arm rebuild

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MI_CDALE_Rider · #1 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:41 pm

Looking to those that have put bearing kits in the swing arm... it's my first time (be gentle lol)

Any tips or tricks? best procedure to tighten the lock nut? Best grease to use etc?

I have a new stock axle that I want to install using new bearings, new brake rotor,
new sprocket and existing rear hubs.

Thanks in advance for any info, I appreciate it!

Ken

exotic rider · #2 Post by **exotic rider** » Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:11 am

QUOTE (MI_CDALE_Rider @ Jul 28 2014, 08:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Looking to those that have put bearing kits in the swing arm... it's my first time (be gentle lol)

Any tips or tricks? best procedure to tighten the lock nut? Best grease to use etc?

I have a new stock axle that I want to install using new bearings, new brake rotor,
new sprocket and existing rear hubs.

Thanks in advance for any info, I appreciate it!

Ken

I picked up a bearing remover/installation kit from harbor freight,then simply tap out,clean,lightly grease,install and thoroughly gwork grease into bearings and lightly grease seal lips.

MI_CDALE_Rider · #3 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 12:56 pm

QUOTE (exotic rider @ Jul 28 2014, 08:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I picked up a bearing remover/installation kit from harbor freight,then simply tap out,clean,lightly grease,install and thoroughly gwork grease into bearings and lightly grease seal lips.

Thanks exotic rider, thats a good idea on the bearing puller from HF, did you use any special type of grease (high temp?).

Thanks for the response!

exotic rider · #4 Post by **exotic rider** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:58 pm

QUOTE (MI_CDALE_Rider @ Aug 4 2014, 01:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks exotic rider, thats a good idea on the bearing puller from HF, did you use any special type of grease (high temp?).

Thanks for the response!

I use bel ray,but any good quality bearing grease will do,I also put a small amount on the axle-just a thin film though,some guys have put grease fittings(zerks) on but I prefer taking apart,cleaning and regreasing -I do every few rides as I ride woods with mud,water but I tend to be of the "prevention of failure" mindset.

MI_CDALE_Rider · #5 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 5:21 pm

QUOTE (exotic rider @ Aug 4 2014, 04:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I use bel ray,but any good quality bearing grease will do,I also put a small amount on the axle-just a thin film though,some guys have put grease fittings(zerks) on but I prefer taking apart,cleaning and regreasing -I do every few rides as I ride woods with mud,water but I tend to be of the "prevention of failure" mindset.

Good info and thanks again!

MI_CDALE_Rider · #6 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:25 pm

Does anyone use anti-seize on the pivot arm bolt or just grease? How about on the bearing carrier "lobes"?

Canniboomer · #7 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:46 pm

Absolutely use anti-seize for metal-to-metal parts that do not move against each other.
There is no piece that contacts the pivot bolt that is supposed to move -- the entire raceway is supposed to be fixed with the bolt, unless there is too much pivot slop and the races start turning = bad, and much faster wear.
To prevent our excessive pivot slop, I have started including a few boltway shims in the Swingam Pivot Kits, for install between the outer left of swingarm and the inner left of frame. Too many machines don't pinch the boltway enough, since that frame crossmember is so near that the boltway can't flex in enough to properly seat the raceway. Just before final tightening the nut on left side, you tap the bolt back out just enough to clear the left frame -- then you use a putty knife or something to find the gap, and push up any shims you can fit in there. Then when you tighten the nut,... things work as intended.

Another good place for anti-seize is the rear axle-carrier spacer on the ATV. On the inside it prevents seizing to the axle, and on the outside it prevents rust.

MI_CDALE_Rider · #8 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:45 pm

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Aug 10 2014, 07:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Absolutely use anti-seize for metal-to-metal parts that do not move against each other.
There is no piece that contacts the pivot bolt that is supposed to move -- the entire raceway is supposed to be fixed with the bolt, unless there is too much pivot slop and the races start turning = bad, and much faster wear.
To prevent our excessive pivot slop, I have started including a few boltway shims in the Swingam Pivot Kits, for install between the outer left of swingarm and the inner left of frame. Too many machines don't pinch the boltway enough, since that frame crossmember is so near that the boltway can't flex in enough to properly seat the raceway. Just before final tightening the nut on left side, you tap the bolt back out just enough to clear the left frame -- then you use a putty knife or something to find the gap, and push up any shims you can fit in there. Then when you tighten the nut,... things work as intended.

Another good place for anti-seize is the rear axle-carrier spacer on the ATV. On the inside it prevents seizing to the axle, and on the outside it prevents rust.

Great info boomer, thanks!