Bleeding Brakes

Shocks, a-arms, swingarms, tires, brakes, etc..
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ABM-CANNIBAL
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

Bleeding Brakes

#1 Post by ABM-CANNIBAL »

This weekend I couldn't get my front brakes to bleed. I just put some new brake lines because I installed a new front end. I tried Pump the brake lever, hold, release pressure at the bleed fitting on the caliper, tighten bleed fittings & repeating. I only had DOT 3 at the time and I noticed the ress. cover asked for DOT 4. Could this be the problem? I am going to try Sandstorms method but would like to know if I need to drain the fluid I have in there and replace with DOT 4 before I start again. Here is Sandstorms Method.

(Lap this is the ONLY way to bleed brakes and get it done thorougly and correct.. If you have pressure on your brake lever this will work. Break the seal on the top of the rezzy on the bars. Leave it on. Pull the lever to the grip and wrap a small bungee mashing the lever to the grip. Walk away and let sit over night. Come out in the morning and pump the lever 20 or so times. Pull the lever to the grip and wrap bungee around it again. Come home tighten up rezzy on bars and your done.. This will get every single air bubble out.. If your brakes don't work now something else is wrong.. You are in hense bleeding the brakes in the opposite direction w/ no mess, no waste of fluid, and you don't need two guys... Good luck...)

jacobw
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#2 Post by jacobw »

the wrong fluid will definatly not work I tried it too and then i got the right fluid the auto parts will have the Dot 4. Put the Dot 4 in it and the brake bleeding will commence!!smile.gif

ducman
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#3 Post by ducman »

If you look at your caliper you will notice that the bleeder is not at the highest point, air doesn't to travel down. Take your caliper off and turn it till the bleeder is pointing straight up and then bleed your brakes as normal, when you do this put a screwdriver between the pads to keep the piston in the housing. I would also refill with fresh dot 4.

ABM-CANNIBAL
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#4 Post by ABM-CANNIBAL »

Thanks allot guys.

wanablaze
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#5 Post by wanablaze »

As previously advised, use either dot 4 or 5.1. Do not use Dot 5, it's not compatible, I promise. rolleyes.gif It does take a long time to bleed the front brakes. Rather than removing the caliper, just put the front of the quad on jackstands. Also, try this: When bleeding your brakes, keep the reservoir full and pump them a few times. Then loosen the banjo fitting at the reservoir. Keep doing this till no more air comes out. Basically you are bleeding the lines and then the calipers. I hope this helps, wanablaze.

ABM-CANNIBAL
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#6 Post by ABM-CANNIBAL »

Using Sandstorms method, I was able to get my brakes working. Thanks allot guys for your tips.

Sandstorm
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#7 Post by Sandstorm »

You must get some pressure first before my method will work. "Some" is the key word.. If there is no pressure nothing can be forced out. Once you have any pressure my method will work 100% of the time w/ 100% results.. To do the back brake you break the seal on the rezzy, leave cap on, and wedge a hammer or long bar, board or whatever between the frame, footpeg and rear brake pedal pushing down on pedal. In 24hrs you will have 100% braking action.. Again if you have just changed brake lines this will not work. You must have some sort of pressure first by the old fashion way, then do as described to finish it out 100%..

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