hey that happen to my dale and it was a bad head gasket.
when i put the hose clamp on the bottle theraditor hose on the bottom of the raditor going to the motor blew and burnt the piss out of me so check the head gasket
overheating problems
QUOTE
Originally posted by cdaleman440
hey that happen to my dale and it was a bad head gasket.
when i put the hose clamp on the bottle theraditor hose on the bottom of the raditor going to the motor blew and burnt the piss out of me so check the head gasket
hey that happen to my dale and it was a bad head gasket.
when i put the hose clamp on the bottle theraditor hose on the bottom of the raditor going to the motor blew and burnt the piss out of me so check the head gasket
Not to tell you different but it sounds like you had a airbubble and blew your head gasket because of no coolant flow
QUOTE
Originally posted by guthrie08
yeah after this happened i bled my system and alot of coolant went down through the bottle, i guess that means i had alot of air in the system? so should i first replace my head gasket and go from there?
In my opinion you need to check your lifters in your head , a heat cycle like that and your lifters could start sticking pretty easy and cause bigger problems, probably should check the sleeve very carefully too especially if you are using a old deep hole one and then you can change the necessary gaskets , Standing a quad up and watching the ottle is a very, very important step to a coolant change or engine installyeah after this happened i bled my system and alot of coolant went down through the bottle, i guess that means i had alot of air in the system? so should i first replace my head gasket and go from there?
and not done properly will easily destroy a motor or the lifespan therof
after you drain a engine of coolant and refill it you will have a bubble or high spot in the system, the easy and not completely proper way to get it out is make a mark on your coolant bottle and tip the quad up on the grab bar,then jiggle it a few times and dont tip it over on anything or anybody and drop it back down, look at your mark on your coolant bottle it will have dropped down, now do it again and when you start up your engine you need to then open your bleeder screw and wait til coolant comes out then retighten and then check your hoses for flow in your coolant you will know because the lower hose will feel the same temperature as the radiator bottom next to the plug where it is connected.
If you dont bleed your system a hot spot will occur in your engine and a lot of things can happen. Its a bad thing. main thing to know is the motor wasn't designed to run those kind of temperatures and its not okay. I welcome anyone else to post how they bleed their motors and what will occur if you don't
If you dont bleed your system a hot spot will occur in your engine and a lot of things can happen. Its a bad thing. main thing to know is the motor wasn't designed to run those kind of temperatures and its not okay. I welcome anyone else to post how they bleed their motors and what will occur if you don't
-
CannondaleRider
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
A lot of motors have the self-bleeding system.
Instead of the bolt at the top right being loosened for bleeding, it has a nipple at the top right that lets air out of the system. The hose goes from that nipple to the nipple on the coolant bottle.
Being that that nipple is the highest point in the system, it should let all the air out of the system.
The way we do our bikes is just by filling them with coolant up to the correct level, and it completely bleeds itself...we've always done it this way(unless, of course, we have a non-self-bleeding impeller cover on the motor) and haven't had a problem yet. The only time we had a problem was the same race the flywheel spun, we drained all the coolant and put Evans in it before the race(to prevent further corrosion), and everything seemed fine, but the **** nipple was plugged from the material from the corrosion we were trying to prevent.:mad:
Instead of the bolt at the top right being loosened for bleeding, it has a nipple at the top right that lets air out of the system. The hose goes from that nipple to the nipple on the coolant bottle.
Being that that nipple is the highest point in the system, it should let all the air out of the system.
The way we do our bikes is just by filling them with coolant up to the correct level, and it completely bleeds itself...we've always done it this way(unless, of course, we have a non-self-bleeding impeller cover on the motor) and haven't had a problem yet. The only time we had a problem was the same race the flywheel spun, we drained all the coolant and put Evans in it before the race(to prevent further corrosion), and everything seemed fine, but the **** nipple was plugged from the material from the corrosion we were trying to prevent.:mad:
-
Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yes, but it's likely plugged with some corrosion. That doesn't matter until you have to refill. And don't forget to always pop off the coolant cap before manual bleeding. It's the upper right bolt on all impeller covers, and same for the ones with the hose nipple.
You can just bleed there if the hose outlet is plugged -- you can check for plugging by removing hose at bottle and blowing into hose -- it's a small passage but you can tell if it's plugged.
so which tastes better? Evans or Engine Ice?
You can just bleed there if the hose outlet is plugged -- you can check for plugging by removing hose at bottle and blowing into hose -- it's a small passage but you can tell if it's plugged.
so which tastes better? Evans or Engine Ice?