Hopefully its the flywheel

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harleypitbull1 · #51 Post by **harleypitbull1** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:37 pm

I have been on the phone with Scooter at optimum and got a little info but they close at 5. We got down to the relay box for the ecu. It is hot at three terminals with the key on like it is supposed to be. Scooter said when you plug in the relay that the other leg should get hot when you hit the start button. The other leg on mine gets hot as soon as you plug the relay in. Not when you hit the start button. Could someone look at the schematic and tell me if this is right or wrong? I cant really understand them, sorry.

jesshamner · #52 Post by **jesshamner** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:52 pm

What do you mean by leg? Is there another quad nearby that you could swap relays with?

harleypitbull1 · #53 Post by **harleypitbull1** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:20 pm

QUOTE (jesshamner @ Jan 4 2007, 04:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What do you mean by leg? Is there another quad nearby that you could swap relays with?

By other leg I meant the 4th wire. 3 of them are hot like that should be but Scooter told me that the fourth wire should not be hot until you hit the start button but mine is hot as soon as you plug the relay in. You can hear the relay close when you touch the 4 wire with a test light. I dont think it should do that because the start switch is tied into one of the wires and when it is touched it is supposed to close the relay. I dont know if this could be the relay or if there is a short that could cause it or maybe a ground or if it is supposed to work that way but once again Scooter ask if it was hot when you hit the start button but its hot as soon as you plug in the relay. I am lost.

kdeal · #54 Post by **kdeal** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:23 am

Wiring harness Versions/Updates:

X-1 Original Harness ***07/01/01

X-2 Revise CN-24 Keying, add bullet connector @ relay to ECU inputs P2 E1 & P1 H4*** 07/16/01

X-3 Add wire to bullet connector @ R2, add cap, change CN10 to 8 pin Deutch, add 2 wires from CN10 to ECU***07/19/01

X-4 Add VIgn splice & wire to CN24, Add second wire from ECU to fan, Delete cap, Add chassis ground/lug break-out @ CN14 branch- 4.5", 6mm stud, Add 1" to CN24 branch.***07/26/01

X-5 Remove P2E1 from SP7, Add P2E1 to CN20, Add power latch splice & wire to R2***08/14/01

X-6 Added 2 - 1N5408 diodes between starter solenoid & clutch switch.***11/06/01

X-7 Removed diodes, Add SP10, Moved D1 between SP10 & SP8, Removed SP3 & moved injector wires to SP10, Moved VIgn wire to SP10, Changed CN20 to female terminal slide connectors for clutch assembly, Added SP11-VReg, Eliminated SP7 & moved to SP8, Changed Brown 40 wire @ relay to Red 26, Added SP12-Cooling Fan, SP13-Lights, Removed SP9, Moved Orange 30 wire to SP8.***1/02/02

X-8 Added 0.5" to clutch connector wires.***01/23/02

As you can see versions X-7 or X-8 are the harness to use if you have a choice due to the fact that they have the most updates. Notice on harness X-7 they removed the diodes! The rest of the jibberish is pin locations on the ECU and wire colors. You need the wiring diagram to decifer them. Also note the differnce in dates, They went from X-1 to X-4 in 45 days & X-1 to X-8 in 4 1/2 months....

cannondale27 · #55 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:46 pm

Just because ECU is fine doesnt mean the fuel pump will run.The ECU may have either lost the map or the HEX code at SAME time your D&M might have had a hiccup.First check to see if green light is on on the black box.If it is then relay is fine.If not take the relay apart.Cover pops right off visually look for broken wires in there and check diode in relay with a voltmeter.While checking wires make sure fuelpump is plugged in all the way and wires are good.Then DISCONNECT fuel pump wires.Using a jumper run power and ground to the pump to be sure it works.
For your D&M click on file and check to see that correct serial number is being used for ECU you are checking.Did you try backdating?Mine just needed it two days ago.I would not even turn key on a rev 5 harness without diode update.Do that before anything.Hope this helps.

harleypitbull1 · #56 Post by **harleypitbull1** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:25 pm

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Jan 5 2007, 06:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just because ECU is fine doesnt mean the fuel pump will run.The ECU may have either lost the map or the HEX code at SAME time your D&M might have had a hiccup.First check to see if green light is on on the black box.If it is then relay is fine.If not take the relay apart.Cover pops right off visually look for broken wires in there and check diode in relay with a voltmeter.While checking wires make sure fuelpump is plugged in all the way and wires are good.Then DISCONNECT fuel pump wires.Using a jumper run power and ground to the pump to be sure it works.
For your D&M click on file and check to see that correct serial number is being used for ECU you are checking.Did you try backdating?Mine just needed it two days ago.I would not even turn key on a rev 5 harness without diode update.Do that before anything.Hope this helps.

The diode update is on the way, and my computer is also on the way back from optimum. I actually have a dealer cal kit. So I dont understand what the serial number for the ecu means. I use the kit on mine and Ronnies all the time. I hooked it up to Ronnies yesterday and it connected just fine. So it has to be something with mine. So it does not need backdating because it worked. I also used it on a buddies speed once and it also connected right to it and has always worked fine on mine til now. Maybe I should just order a rev 8 harness. I hate to spend the money but this is driving me nuts. I have chased wires for hours and cant find anything wrong. That I know is wrong. Thanks

cannondale27 · #57 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:37 pm

Okay thats good it worked on his.Didnt know.So is the green light lit on yours?

ktmlew · #58 Post by **ktmlew** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:58 am

QUOTE (harleypitbull1 @ Jan 4 2007, 06:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

By other leg I meant the 4th wire. 3 of them are hot like that should be but Scooter told me that the fourth wire should not be hot until you hit the start button but mine is hot as soon as you plug the relay in. You can hear the relay close when you touch the 4 wire with a test light. I dont think it should do that because the start switch is tied into one of the wires and when it is touched it is supposed to close the relay. I dont know if this could be the relay or if there is a short that could cause it or maybe a ground or if it is supposed to work that way but once again Scooter ask if it was hot when you hit the start button but its hot as soon as you plug in the relay. I am lost.

Could the start button be stuck? If it's one where you have to tap the button and it doesn't see the break in signal will it allow access to the ECU?

harleypitbull1 · #59 Post by **harleypitbull1** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:58 am

Well come to find out, the voltage regulator had shorted out. Plugged the computer back in from optimum today and it started right up. But now it is puking oil. I am assuming this means that something got into the scavenge pump and has messed the oil pump up or sheered a pin or something. I am almost positive that I got all the pieces out of the head from the decomp. Could this be anything else or am I gonna have to take the motor back out? If I do have to take it out, what do I do after I get the engine out? thanks

jesshamner · #60 Post by **jesshamner** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:59 am

Check the easy stuff first! Drain your overflow in the right frame spar on the inside just above the footpeg. I had a puking problem when I put my motor back in too and it was this overflow being too full.