took apart my blown engine

[tomi440]

I bought a used 03 Cannibal 440 with a blown engine. I finally got a chance to tear down
the engine. the engine dropped a exaust valve and it screwed up the piston and clyinder
head pretty good, bent the intake valves etc. Hopfuly I can reuse my cylinder head, but it looks pretty haggard but to the looks of it the valve seats stilll are ok.

I'll try to post pics once I'm off work today.

[Happyboy]

ewww...sorry to hear that. welcome to the group though!

[tomi440]

Thanks!

The previous owner told me he just put it a falicon crank a few months ago. There is no play in the crank but while the engine is in peices, I'm going to take out the crank to inspect it. I think I'm going to put the O.E.M topend from black widow on. the cylinder head is also ported.

Is there anything I should look at/replace while I have the engine out and apart?

[moto440]

welcome, saw a good to go complete head on ebay for 349. i might be interested in your damaged one depending on the damage and price. biggest thing to check is the crank in the dales, you might look into sending it to tim or black widow to be inspected and be sure its good, cheap insurance in my opinion since its already apart

[SlOoT]

Was it the exhaust valve wich is NOT actuated by the decomp that dropped ?

[thedeatons]

I may have a spare head for sale... Will let you know.

[tomi440]

the broken valve is on the decompressor side. Does that mean anything? are they known for usally dropping the other valve?

the clyinderhead is a little chopped up BUTTT the valve seats look ok. hopfuly i can reuse the head and just smooth out around the valve seats where they got dinged up. i would like to try to save the head since its prettty expensive for a new one and this ones intake is ported.

also i have a automotive valve spring compressor, but it cant get into where the valve retainers are. is the a smaller, special tool? or any tricks you guys can tell me?


thanks for your help

[thedeatons]

Gigantic "C" clamp with a deep socket welded onto the threading end. Cut out most of the socket's walls, so you can get precision pliers between the leftover walls of the socket after compressing the springs with the C clamp. Works great. Try to pad the clamp/socket so there is no marring to the head/valve.

The exhaust valve bucket next to the compression release is known for having the "sticky bucket" syndrome. There is a casting seam in the bucket bore which gets bigger with heat (after break in), making the bucket stick in the down position (valve open), and potentially causing valve float, leading to your ASSO saying hi to the stainless valve.... They don't play well together, better to keep them seperated.

The buckets should fall out of the bucket bores, and vice versa, should slide down into the bore under their own weight. Make sure to check that out. If they do not get some Dychem Hi-Spot Blue and coat the bucket bore with it. When you slide the bucket in and out you should see blue in a uniform coating all the way around. If there is any silver, or not blue area, that is a hi-spot. This hi-spot can be lightly sanded out with 2000 grit wet sandpaper, or better yet Timbo can use his machine for a very precise finish.

The important part is that the move up or down from their own weight, and that when the bucket bores are fixed the buckets still hold oil on the top, so the cam lobes get a good bath at startup.

[cannondale27]

Make sure when you do the test you have the springs removed also.Highspot is near bottom of bucket travel.Use new valvesprings and consider lowering your rev limit to under 11000 rpm.How is the decomp?

[thedeatons]

You can send your valve springs to either Cord at Black Widow or Timbomoose, and they will test them for you. If they are out of spec they can offer replacements.