took apart my blown engine

Engine, intake, exhaust, EFI, chain, sprockets, etc.
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cannondale27
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#21 Post by cannondale27 »

QUOTE (Happyboy @ Aug 22 2008, 03:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
molecular level? You can check your springs at the 2 spec points and if they are in spec you are good. you are not going to see a speed degredation without a height/pressure change as well. Yes, they do loose form due to memory but again, you would see the pressure change at that point.


Yes I agree so what is the purpose of shimming old springs?Just trying to get people away from that practice.You can shim to make a worn valvespring meet spec but how long will it still meet spec even shimmed?I see them degrade much faster than a new spring.That tells me something has changed and pressure and straightness dont test for it.I guess I am assuming its molecular.

Happyboy
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#22 Post by Happyboy »

Shimming an old or even new spring increases the pressure at the same compressed height. Shimming because the given spring has too low of a spring constant (k) is completely different than shimming because the spring has worn and weakend. I don't know how long it takes for a spring to have its (k) reduced to the point it would matter for our use. Would be a neat thing to look into though. That is the degredation of our spring types. Hmmm....good old days of physics.

tomi440
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#23 Post by tomi440 »

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Aug 22 2008, 10:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yes I agree so what is the purpose of shimming old springs?Just trying to get people away from that practice.You can shim to make a worn valvespring meet spec but how long will it still meet spec even shimmed?I see them degrade much faster than a new spring.That tells me something has changed and pressure and straightness dont test for it.I guess I am assuming its molecular.


So I should definitly get new valve springs too?

What other precaustions should I take, I don't want to rebuild it and a few hours later it drops another valve.

tomi440
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#24 Post by tomi440 »

QUOTE (desertbound @ Aug 22 2008, 08:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just a friendly FYI, but your lower a arms are on the wrong side of your quad. I can't tell if the top ones are. I'd have to see a picture from above the arms.I can tell by looking that those are Herrmann racing arms. I bet it handles like a dream. HAha laugh.gif You might want to fix that.




lmao, I had no idea, I bought the quad blown a couple weeks ago and I'm new to Cannondales. so I haven't been able to drive it yet, but it will be a blast. Do you think the previous owner put the a-arms on reverse for a reason or by mistake? lol

jinx44
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#25 Post by jinx44 »

QUOTE (tomi440 @ Aug 23 2008, 03:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
lmao, i had no idea, i bought the quad blown a couple weeks ago and im new to cannondales. so i havent been able to drive it yet but it will be a blasttt. do you think the previous owner put the a-arms on reverse for a reason or by mistake lol


Probably by mistake. I made that mistake on a banshee once as well.

Happyboy
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#26 Post by Happyboy »

I would put in a completely new top end, or if you are purchasing a top end that is complete just make sure everything is within spec.

wistech
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#27 Post by wistech »

Since used heads are cheap, just get a used one and go through it checking for cracks, check bucket bores for sticking, make sure cams spin free with valves out, slap a set of new valves in it and make sure the springs are up to spec and you will have no trouble after that. It would be a huge mistake just to whip a used head on without checking.
When they drop valves they usually bend the rods to the side and since yours is a Falicon you might be cheaper off to get an updated stocker.

Happyboy
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#28 Post by Happyboy »

Also, for the valve spring compressor check this out....they don't seem to have it on their site anymore but they may still be able to get it by phone. This is what I have and I love it. It's got room for working with the keepers and you don't have to rig something up.



http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=13217

looks like there are some similar ones out there...

motion pro carries it but its $115..
http://www.cycleshopusa.com/products.asp?nm=1710

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/productin...014&affid=4

tomi440
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#29 Post by tomi440 »

QUOTE (Wistech @ Aug 23 2008, 05:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
When they drop valves they usually bend the rods to the side and since yours is a falicon you might be cheaper off to get an updated stocker.



Eeek...I hope my rod isn't bent, I didn't even think of that, I'll have to look into that. Isn't Falicon a higher end crank?

thedeatons
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#30 Post by thedeatons »

The name would suggest so wouldn't it? LOL

Falicons are questionable. Anyone who has paid $1000 for them then had them crap out or be out of balance has moved back to our stock reliable crankshafts. Just replace the bearing in a stocker and it should last a LONG time.

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