took apart my blown engine

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thedeatons · #61 Post by **thedeatons** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:07 pm

Nope no worries.... No offense taken, don't apologize. It just doesn't make sense to type something when it has already been typed, with pictures...

tomi440 · #62 Post by **tomi440** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:27 pm

I was checking my bucket bores yesterday. I read that when both the bore and the bucket are free of oil, the bucket should fall to the bottom of the bore by it's own weight and fall out on it's own weight.
Only in 1 of the 4 bucket bores the bucket will fall on its own weight!
The bore known for sticking with the casting seam is so tight, I can hardly even put the bucket in even pushing, and it won't even make it to the bottom. This one is by far the worst

My question is what can I do to fix my problem? Could I somehow use like metal ink to find the high spots? I have the stones from a mini cylinder hone I could use to file down the high spots, the only thing I dont know how to acuratly find them. I dont want to take off the wrong material and leave my head useless. I wouldnt like to send my cylinder away for machining unless I absoulutly have to. Can anyone help?

Thanks for any help, thoughts or ideas!

peterock · #63 Post by **peterock** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:43 am

I did exactly what you talked about. Put some blueing or something to see where the high spots are and lightly work those areas. Take a little time but can be. Just don't get crazy and take away too much material.

cannondale27 · #64 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:47 am

Yup can be done but it is VERY time consuming.Pete is a hard worker and thought nothing of spending 3hrs hitting that spot.Before you condemn the other 3 take a Scotch Brite pad and lightly*lightly*clean up the bores.Then clean with Brake Clean and try bucket drop again.

thedeatons · #65 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:12 am

Dykem Hi Spot Blue is the chemical to use. 2000 wet sandpaper is the tool to use. I prefer QD (Quick Dry) electronic parts cleaner to brake cleaner, because it is plastic safe, and easy on the hands. We degrease engines with cans of this all the time. Can be found at Wal Mart or Napa in the automotive section.

When working on a difficult bucket I wrap a piece of magnet in the end of a duct tape strip, using it to move the bucket out when it gets stuck.

cannondale27 · #66 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:18 am

Deatons how are you getting JUST the highspot with sand paper?Or are you talking the *light,light* clean up of whole bore?For getting just the high spot I like to use a Round India stone or send it to Timbo for machining if bigger than 1/4"spot as checked with dykem.

thedeatons · #67 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:52 am

I go very carefully and take a lot of time, like you mentioned. Lots of times I fold the sandpaper until it is a very thin, firm strip, so I don't take material from anywhere but the hi-spot. Really the best way is to ask Tim to do it on the machine, but sometimes time commits (and lack of patience) keeps me from shipping them off......

I have had good success with doing this, and my buckets still hold oil no problem. Lots of ways to do it though...

cannondale27 · #68 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:55 am

Sounds good.Just hoping you werent going crazy with it.Nice job.

tomi440 · #69 Post by **tomi440** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:59 pm

can anyone tell me a step-by-step to find the highspots? Thin coat on the bore and put the bucket in, the streeks/area where the bucket rubbed gets sanded?

thanks for the info so far! great help.

thedeatons · #70 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:31 pm

Those instructions are perfect. The bucket will wipe away the blueing, leaving a subtle silver color, which is where you sand. Gently. Repeat.