It would not be the clutch interlock, since that only controls current to the starter solenoid.
Sudden stalling can be caused by a bad start-run switch, a bad red stop switch (like the early red round version (momentary OFF)), or anything that would interrupt power to the ECU. A bad ignition keyswitch could cause the same thing, if the run circuit loses any continuity with vibrations. You could try the next position with the headlights ON, just to rule out the vertical position of the key switch. If it quits stalling with the headlights ON, then it's either the keyswitch itself, or you could maybe have a bad voltage regulator.
so you dont think it has anything to do with fuel system.By the way what does your new fuel lines cost
Like mentioned here already by others, the most common problem is usually the fuel system. But, I thought you had corrected some of that already, since you mentioned you got rid of the disconnects?. With a fresh fuel filter, you should not be fuel-stalling now, no matter what size or brand of filter you use. But the pump itself may be starting to go out -- we go through far too many pumps, but I blame it all on the plumbing that strangles them -- from day one at the factory they run hotter than necessary and draw too many amps for the amount of fuel that is delivered -- that's a certain recipe for earlier pump failure. Anyway, you can suck directly out of a separate fuel can for a quick test (BEWARE please leave the machines tank cap OFF whenever doing that, or you will pressurize the tank with returned fuel that cannot exit!).
You can also peek into the fuel tank whiles it's running, and watch the return line as it's stalling -- if the fuel return is weak and then drops off before it stalls out, then it's likely a plumbing or pump issue. But if the fuel return seems normal until it stalls, then it's more likely an electrical problem.
You have a pretty good list of things to check for by now -- maybe you can narrow it down and let us know, or give a call.
took the blaze out riding yesterday everything was going good for about the first half hour then it would just die like it was out of fuel,but as soon as I would stop hit the start button it start right up.So i go for about another 5 minutes or so it would just die , but it always start right and idle.Then it would be fine for 15 minutes and do it again,but the more i road the worse it got to the point to where it would just idle, if I gave it any fuel it would just sputter and die .
I had a similar situation with my bike. It would run and just die but you could start it right back up again. It would always idle fine. Turns out when I would sit on the seat it would pull the wiring harness away from the relay just enough to make it cut out. I zip tied the harness and relay together and now it is working great. I also thought it was the fuel system and the stop switch. I wonder if I just lost 20 Lbs. if it would have had the same effect.
If the positive side battery cable was touching the metal strap across the top of the battery tray would that cause a dead short and in turn cause the stalling. And I also need to lose about 20 lbs.
I moved all the wires away from where they were at but havent had a chance to try.The reason why the wires were where they were because I thought it wuold be coolto move the battery just behind the gas tank, fits really nicein there I just needed to make some more room for battery cables.
I moved all the wires away from where they were at but havent had a chance to try.The reason why the wires were where they were because I thought it wuold be coolto move the battery just behind the gas tank, fits really nicein there I just needed to make some more room for battery cables.
just to let all that gave me advice I found the problem and it was the positive battery cable shorting out on the frame