Tranny losing fluids

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claas900 · #11 Post by **claas900** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:38 am

Have you done a pressure test on it yet? Odds are it will turn up your leak. I like to use soapy water in an old Windex bottle.

Crazie · #12 Post by **Crazie** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:56 am

Not yet....just got it pulled and started checking things out today. I'll be doing it probably tomorrow though. It's going to get a lot of TLC now that it's finally out.

BTW, I caught that thread "Build of Hope".......LOVE IT! Everything you do is soooo clean.

Canniboomer · #13 Post by **Canniboomer** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 4:05 am

1st pic -- the idler gear appears to be rubbing and scorch-marked. I would check for the cause, and more precise shimming,... and probably change the needle bearing there also.

Timing gear and chain are rust-spotted. What gear oil are you using?...maybe it sheets off to soon, and you get condensation rusting.

2nd pic -- A spare Stage 8 bolt through a flange nut might be OK for a TDC bolt or plug, but you would need to make dang sure that is sealing up -- oil could be leaking through there to the sump. Any bolt with a softer aluminum spacer is good, or a shorty bolt with a bonded seal works great also, plus some usual loctite to the threads for good measure.

3rd pic -- It's a bit hard to see, but is that your circlip in the slot against the clutch needle bearings?

4th pic -- I wonder if running the clutch discs past the wear limit could possibly cause that.
I've never noticed that kind of rubbing there before.

Crazie · #14 Post by **Crazie** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 4:39 am

Timing gear and chain - It had smurf blood in it when I bought it, but I've been using AMSOIL 10-30 since (about 1.5yrs)

2nd pic - had no idea that was there....I'll be calling sometime this week for a tank anyways..so let me know what you would put there. Could this be the cause of my original issue?

3rd pic - nothing there except the needle bearings. That's just the slot where the splined ID washer goes (I had to run to the garage and double check it). Just the lighting I guess.

4th pic - circlip was on the outside of the hub.

This is the first time I've taken this apart, or any C'dale for that matter, so anything that might be wrong could have been there before. As for the clutch, I have removed it once and put it back in, which is why I asked about uneven torque being the cause.

Thanks Dave!

Kuma · #15 Post by **Kuma** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 4:57 am

QUOTE (Crazie @ Aug 30 2009, 08:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not yet....just got it pulled and started checking things out today. I'll be doing it probably tomorrow though. It's going to get a lot of TLC now that it's finally out.

BTW, I caught that thread "Build of Hope".......LOVE IT! Everything you do is soooo clean.

I was kinda wondering what happened to ya, get that thing fixed while it's hot! Dune season is right around the corner.

rayspeed · #16 Post by **rayspeed** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:59 pm

Before you go any further in tear down get a low pressure regulator and pressure do some pressure testing or else you may not find anything obvious only to find it it after you put it together.
I made that mistake once and wasted alot of work putting together a motor with a case that was cracked between the crank and the trans.

2000ex · #17 Post by **2000ex** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:34 pm

QUOTE (Crazie @ Aug 31 2009, 12:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

3rd pic - nothing there except the needle bearings. That's just the slot where the splined ID washer goes (I had to run to the garage and double check it). Just the lighting I guess.

I dont know, in looking at that picture the circlip is in that slot and not at the end

Crazie · #18 Post by **Crazie** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:40 pm

That's exactly what I had in mind Ray. Based on what we all had talked about way back when. I stopped yesterday because I have to set up for the pressure test. I think the regulator on my air compressor goes that low but I have to double check.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! It feels good to be back...lol.

Crazie · #19 Post by **Crazie** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:44 pm

QUOTE (2000ex @ Aug 31 2009, 07:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I dont know, in looking at that picture the circlip is in that slot and not at the end

I think it's just because the needle bearings are pulled out slightly and flush with the edge right there. I know I had to take the circlip off to get the hub out, but I double checked yesterday after Dave's post to make sure there wasn't another one in there. So far, no extra parts, and as far as I know, no parts out of place.

claas900 · #20 Post by **claas900** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:58 pm

QUOTE (Crazie @ Aug 30 2009, 08:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

BTW, I caught that thread "Build of Hope".......LOVE IT! Everything you do is soooo clean.

Thanks.

Before I tear into a motor I do the pressure test to make sure I don't have a crack/leak somewhere. I also count the clicks on the timing chain tensioner. I think anything more then 9 clicks and its time to replace parts. Tho just eyeballing yours it looks fine. I also check crank end play,best to remove flywheel for this.
Dave was talking about idler bearing,just replace them. I think there like $20 cheep insurance. Yes I have had them fail.
I've never seen an inner clutch hub do that,maybe get some more pics of it. You never know we might see something?