antifreeze in oil
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mikecancu812
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Gettin quad ready for a poker run. Changed brake pads that i let go a little longer than I should of. Then I started changin oil and found where some of my Engine Ice is goin. Not too much in there, but any at all is too much. So what do yins think I got. A cracked sleeve. I've been pretty lucky and haven't had to crack the engine open yet. The guy I bought it off of said it has aluminum valve cover but haven't checked yet. How hard is it to check with motor in.
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
If the valvecover is black, it's magnesium = corrosion by now (yes even with Engine Ice).
If the valvecover is dusty beige on top, and unfinished on the right rear side, it's magnesium = worse corrosion (see pic).
If the valvecover is GM engine blue or completely unfinished, it's Aluminum, and your problem is not with the valvecover.
Since the motor is due for work anyway, you would not normally change the valvecover IN-Frame. But you can certainly do it, and to get you by until the ultimate teardown. It's just a bit tight access, and awkward to get the new cover back on and sealed up correctly... I know of one guy that took 3 attempts to get 'r done OK,.... and others that manage it the first time. I guess the first thing is to ID the valvecover version, to know if you want to even bother with yanking off the impeller cover.
If you need an ALUM valvecover, I can still get one to you by Friday.
If the valvecover is dusty beige on top, and unfinished on the right rear side, it's magnesium = worse corrosion (see pic).
If the valvecover is GM engine blue or completely unfinished, it's Aluminum, and your problem is not with the valvecover.
Since the motor is due for work anyway, you would not normally change the valvecover IN-Frame. But you can certainly do it, and to get you by until the ultimate teardown. It's just a bit tight access, and awkward to get the new cover back on and sealed up correctly... I know of one guy that took 3 attempts to get 'r done OK,.... and others that manage it the first time. I guess the first thing is to ID the valvecover version, to know if you want to even bother with yanking off the impeller cover.
If you need an ALUM valvecover, I can still get one to you by Friday.
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mikecancu812
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
For special tools?... I think the only things needed for a full motor job are a flywheel puller, a backhammer puller set for bearings, and a torque wrench adapter....that assumes you send the head out for service. I would not recommend DIY headwork for first-time rebuilders on a time schedule, since many unique parts are usually needed, and some learned technique is involved. The head can be sent off for service while you prep and deal with the rest of the motor....which is enough of a challenge,... and you still save many hundreds$$.
Other motor tasks can safely be done without special tools. Many guys will start with just a flywheel puller, and then make up a parts need-list after tearing down the motor. It's usually a waste of time and expense to pre-order various parts by guessing, since you will always buy too many,..... or not enough. But I could send you a flywheel puller by the weekend,.... $20 shipped.
For a machine that has used up a set of rear brakepads?.... and still stock?..... well, it's likely due for an upgrade crank by now, as the stock crank is likely not rebuildable.
As for the head after burning some Engine Ice? (50% water), that would probably need a complete dissection teardown, inspection -- which is usually done anyway to first-time rebuilds, and then
ported/resurfaced/decomp check-fix, etc. while it's all apart. The piston kit?...yep that is likely needed of course, and your best choices are the Stock 432 or the CP450 at a big price difference.
For meeting a very tight time schedule?...like when is your Poker Run?, hmmn I think best to quick-swap for a ready ported-upgraded head, and then probably still change-out the crank.
The head cost would vary widely, and depending on the condition of YOUR head parts,...and per a core trade basis. Maybe give a call with more details, for a good estimate with options by return.
On the bright side, it already has an Aluminum valvecover!
Other motor tasks can safely be done without special tools. Many guys will start with just a flywheel puller, and then make up a parts need-list after tearing down the motor. It's usually a waste of time and expense to pre-order various parts by guessing, since you will always buy too many,..... or not enough. But I could send you a flywheel puller by the weekend,.... $20 shipped.
For a machine that has used up a set of rear brakepads?.... and still stock?..... well, it's likely due for an upgrade crank by now, as the stock crank is likely not rebuildable.
As for the head after burning some Engine Ice? (50% water), that would probably need a complete dissection teardown, inspection -- which is usually done anyway to first-time rebuilds, and then
ported/resurfaced/decomp check-fix, etc. while it's all apart. The piston kit?...yep that is likely needed of course, and your best choices are the Stock 432 or the CP450 at a big price difference.
For meeting a very tight time schedule?...like when is your Poker Run?, hmmn I think best to quick-swap for a ready ported-upgraded head, and then probably still change-out the crank.
The head cost would vary widely, and depending on the condition of YOUR head parts,...and per a core trade basis. Maybe give a call with more details, for a good estimate with options by return.
On the bright side, it already has an Aluminum valvecover!