New Cannibal 440
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The valves hit also.So not sure what you are expecting but this is going to be an entire rebuild with alot of new parts needed.Give Timbo a call or at minimum send head to him to get it done right(sticky bucket) and preferably ported.Like ProFlow said decide what you want since stroker is awesome but you will have to wait for one -vs-stock Z400'd which is available from Caniboomer right away.Either way your not going to be rebuilding that crank.Dont get discouraged though since all the parts are available and reasonably priced also.
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Was thinking new rod, bearing and balance. So this crank is not rebuildable? Havent cleaned and inspected anything yet. I never even looked at the top of the piston till I took the pics. The right side bearing race does look like it got hot too. Not interested in a stroker, just want to get it running again. Stock will do it for me.
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No its not rebuildable like others.Crankpin is part of the crank like auto but you cant grind and polish it since needle bearings are used.And only one half of crank is pressed on.When Timbo makes a stroker the stock pin is machined out and replaced with one of his.He can also do same process for a stock stroke but in my opinion not worth it since new updated bearing cranks are available immediately and fixing yours would require almost as much machining ($,time) especially with old mainbearing.Canniboomers stock crank will have both rod and mainbearings updated and last for years they are also balanced and trued I believe Timbo did those also.You will need to buy the Mainbearings.That covers the crank.
Head is critical to do right.Sticky bucket is a very common defect.As far as I know the only one to do them right is Timbo.Is a spot on the bore that is undersize.He machines ONLY that spot leaving the bucket bores at the close tolerances they demand to be free from friction yet still hold oil for startups.It can also be done by hand but ONLY the spot can be touched and it takes hours to do by hand.Decomp also needs to be checked.
I suspect you have early cams and buckets hopefully still good.Can you take pics of them at tips of lobes?
Dont forget to clean and inspect your one-way since it will have debris in it which leads to failure.Cleanliness and Loctite are your friends!
If it seems I really push Timbo and Canniboomer its true.I dont trust anyone else for my machine work and Boomer is just amazing for parts service.If you can do the assembly and use these guys you will save $ and not be disappointed.
Head is critical to do right.Sticky bucket is a very common defect.As far as I know the only one to do them right is Timbo.Is a spot on the bore that is undersize.He machines ONLY that spot leaving the bucket bores at the close tolerances they demand to be free from friction yet still hold oil for startups.It can also be done by hand but ONLY the spot can be touched and it takes hours to do by hand.Decomp also needs to be checked.
I suspect you have early cams and buckets hopefully still good.Can you take pics of them at tips of lobes?
Dont forget to clean and inspect your one-way since it will have debris in it which leads to failure.Cleanliness and Loctite are your friends!
If it seems I really push Timbo and Canniboomer its true.I dont trust anyone else for my machine work and Boomer is just amazing for parts service.If you can do the assembly and use these guys you will save $ and not be disappointed.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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![laugh.gif](style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif)
Timbo has two CNC mills so what he does to machine just the high spot is he 0's it to bore and then just machines to existing bore dia.He also does the valve seats and part of the porting with the CNC.
It can be done by hand but yes you blue the bore,run bucket in and you will see the highspot,Using a small round india stone start rubbing,repeat process till blueing shows no high spot.Just takes time.Worst one is usually opposite decomp,exhaust valve.
When perfectly clean the buckets should fall out of head if tipped upside down with valves removed and buckets all the way at bottom of bore.The kicker is they should also hold oil on top buckets for days if not months.
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