New Cannibal 440

Message

cannondale27 · #11 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:24 am

The valves hit also.So not sure what you are expecting but this is going to be an entire rebuild with alot of new parts needed.Give Timbo a call or at minimum send head to him to get it done right(sticky bucket) and preferably ported.Like ProFlow said decide what you want since stroker is awesome but you will have to wait for one -vs-stock Z400'd which is available from Caniboomer right away.Either way your not going to be rebuilding that crank.Dont get discouraged though since all the parts are available and reasonably priced also.

proflow · #12 Post by **proflow** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:39 am

A strong 432 is a Great engine.
I kinda jumped the gun on the stroker thing, but also we dont know what you are used to riding.
The big boys here have any parts you may need, but full custom like mentioned above does take more time to build.

Proflow

newtocdale · #13 Post by **newtocdale** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 5:32 am

Was thinking new rod, bearing and balance. So this crank is not rebuildable? Havent cleaned and inspected anything yet. I never even looked at the top of the piston till I took the pics. The right side bearing race does look like it got hot too. Not interested in a stroker, just want to get it running again. Stock will do it for me.

cannondale27 · #14 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:15 pm

No its not rebuildable like others.Crankpin is part of the crank like auto but you cant grind and polish it since needle bearings are used.And only one half of crank is pressed on.When Timbo makes a stroker the stock pin is machined out and replaced with one of his.He can also do same process for a stock stroke but in my opinion not worth it since new updated bearing cranks are available immediately and fixing yours would require almost as much machining ($,time) especially with old mainbearing.Canniboomers stock crank will have both rod and mainbearings updated and last for years they are also balanced and trued I believe Timbo did those also.You will need to buy the Mainbearings.That covers the crank.

Head is critical to do right.Sticky bucket is a very common defect.As far as I know the only one to do them right is Timbo.Is a spot on the bore that is undersize.He machines ONLY that spot leaving the bucket bores at the close tolerances they demand to be free from friction yet still hold oil for startups.It can also be done by hand but ONLY the spot can be touched and it takes hours to do by hand.Decomp also needs to be checked.

I suspect you have early cams and buckets hopefully still good.Can you take pics of them at tips of lobes?

Dont forget to clean and inspect your one-way since it will have debris in it which leads to failure.Cleanliness and Loctite are your friends!

If it seems I really push Timbo and Canniboomer its true.I dont trust anyone else for my machine work and Boomer is just amazing for parts service.If you can do the assembly and use these guys you will save $ and not be disappointed.

newtocdale · #15 Post by **newtocdale** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:44 pm

It will be a few days, but Ill post the pics as soon as I can. Sounds like I need to get a hold of these guys for the upgraded parts. Lots of good info on here. Thanks for the help guys.

cannondale27 · #16 Post by **cannondale27** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:46 am

Glad you are digging in.Its worth it!

newtocdale · #17 Post by **newtocdale** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:40 am

With that avatar proflow's got, I aint going anywhere.

newtocdale · #18 Post by **newtocdale** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:42 am

With this sticky bucket, he mics the bore, and hand scrapes the small spot? I cant find anything on the issue, other than that it is an issue. How much of this stuff do you guys do yourselves? Im in it to learn. I dont mind having to replace a few things here and there. Got to learn somehow.

cannondale27 · #19 Post by **cannondale27** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:29 pm

true

Timbo has two CNC mills so what he does to machine just the high spot is he 0's it to bore and then just machines to existing bore dia.He also does the valve seats and part of the porting with the CNC.

It can be done by hand but yes you blue the bore,run bucket in and you will see the highspot,Using a small round india stone start rubbing,repeat process till blueing shows no high spot.Just takes time.Worst one is usually opposite decomp,exhaust valve.

When perfectly clean the buckets should fall out of head if tipped upside down with valves removed and buckets all the way at bottom of bore.The kicker is they should also hold oil on top buckets for days if not months.

cannondale27 · #20 Post by **cannondale27** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:16 pm

I forgot.Timbo will also have to machine the case for the new mainbearing.Might be easier/cheaper to just find a new case manual clutch cases are pretty easy to find.