Valve Clearance Issue

[cannondale27]

Yes lobe to cap bolt is also seen easy by eye. But get used to counting the teeth since someday you might want to performance time your motor and you may end up using your own markings. If you remark them you will be doing alot of counting on all 3 gears. It avoids errors and there is no discrepancy. One tooth is one tooth no matter what angle you are looking from.

[rayspeed]

If everything checks out then it could have been something as simple as the throttle cal being off. There is no way to tell where you are without a d&m and all it wouldnt take being off much for the symptoms you were getting.
That along with the likely new porting and possibly new open air filter if the ecu has a stock map I would give it a slim to no chance of starting.
Before you button it up see what shims you have in there and use the chart to get the correct ones as it would be a good idea to get that squared away while you are in there.
If everything else in there looks ok you could probably rig it up to do a compression test on the bench and we can give you an idea on if you should put it back in or not. I can handle the settings easily after that and get you running in no time.
Ray

[who_gives_a6]

All the teeth match up perfectly with how the pics show and the explanations above. The shims are 265 intake a 255 exhaust. According to manual they should each go down 5. Where can I get these? I have a bunch of shims for other bikes, but none are right diameter. Same as other bikes/quads or available somewhere online?

Also, I have a D&M kit and did my best with what I could find on this site. The only thing I didn't do was hex code because I couldn't find a computer with serial port I needed and USB connector doesn't transfer the hex. I did throttle recall, uploaded a map I found on here that was made and dyno setup for a motor/intake with exact same settings. Have tried 2 different ecu's too. It could be something simple, but figured to start at motor. We did a compression test when it was in frame and I can't recall how high as it's been almost a year since, but it was a good reading then.

So far it all checks out good minus a little tight on valve clearance. Good piece of mind though I guess. Oh, and where can I get a side cover gasket for the case? When I took it off I noticed there wasn't a gasket at all, just some gasket sealant or something around the entire cover. Had 2 small leak holes because of it.

[cannondale27]

I am sure you heard this before. Check your flywheel. I would like to see a picture of it with the nut and lockwasher removed. Also shims are available at any dealer. Very common size. So what exactly was your valve clearance?

[Kuma]

QUOTE (rayspeed @ Nov 15 2010, 09:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you want to make the short trip to Glamis when I go next time then I can take a look at it for you out there... I have the degree tools. If you don't have anything to ride then I could probably help there too. Only set trip right now is between xmas and new years but the weekend after thanksgiving is looking good also.

Not to hijack the post, but We'll be out to Glamis, see you there!

[who_gives_a6]

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Nov 16 2010, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am sure you heard this before.Check your flywheel.I would like to see a picture of it with the nut and lockwasher removed.Also shims are available at any dealer.Very common size.So what exactly was your valve clearance?

I got .30mm on exhaust and .12mm on intake for clearances when done according to manual. Said minumum clearance is .36mm exhaust and .18mm intake. Measured with standard feeler gauges bought at Autozone. I can get a photo of flywheel tonight. I have two of them. One was brand new and one used. They both line up like I've been told to check for to see if they're spun but been awhile so don't recall the test for it.

[who_gives_a6]

Here is a pic of the flywheel when put on it. I don't have the stator on in the photo but this is when the crank/piston at TDC and the cams setup as per the pics in the manual.

[cannondale27]

OK clearance and flywheel are fine. Next on my suspect list would be the decomp. Can you check that with pics?

[who_gives_a6]

The decomp was supposed to be "rebuilt". However that works. Unfamiliar with them. I'm not sure how I'd be able to check it with pics. I completely tore down the head and took it all apart. Cleaned up some as the job was fairly well done before but had some dirt specs that got on piston over time so got it cleaned off and such. Put it all back together per manual, setup timing as manual states, and now the hardness to turn over is gone. It has some pressure when at TDC still, but is not as hard now; feels pretty smooth throughout rotation now. I cleaned everything up, relubed areas that said to be, and double, triple, and quadruple checked each thing.

So would you all mess with the shims or no? They're not far off but are a bit tight. Can get the recommended shims.

And not to change subject of my own thread but anyone know of a guy who goes by "Hootie" that was involved with Cannondale the last months of the factory working on the 04 prototypes and some engine design mods? He's the local guy I've ran into with a wealth of C'Dale history and knowledge, but not a user on here. Said that's all he was known by there at factory and with the race teams.

[cannondale27]

Yes I would put the correct shims in for factory valve clearance but some builders do shim tighter than spec. that is not your problem. When you do that you will have the cam out and be able to check the decomp properly. Pictures can also be taken easily then. I believe there is a thread called "How to check your decomp"search for it. Do not have your decomp rebuilt by anyone not using the latest factory parts. I charge $50 for a complete rebuild if wieght is still good. Or you can do it yourself.