Just put the moto back together after its second rebuild this year (stator side crank bearing failed) uuughh.
So shes back together when I click the start button the fuel pump primes as normal but I get a single click from the Main Power Relay. I replaced the plug with a spare I had and same thing. Thanks for any help in advance. I've been trying to register for this site for 3 years and it never let me. Glad to finally be able to post!
Main Power Relay Clicking
It clicks but the engine does not crank. I'm talking about the relay by the ECU.
I've also cranked the engine manually with the key in the on position and I know the pump should prime with every revolution but it does not.
I just put the rebuilt motor in and the only notable change was the crank sensor end ripped off so I had to reconnect the two wires. Those two wires are wrapped in another braided type wire not sure if my issue is there or not. The wires are reconnected well but that extra braided metal around the wires has been pulled back to reconnect.
I've also cranked the engine manually with the key in the on position and I know the pump should prime with every revolution but it does not.
I just put the rebuilt motor in and the only notable change was the crank sensor end ripped off so I had to reconnect the two wires. Those two wires are wrapped in another braided type wire not sure if my issue is there or not. The wires are reconnected well but that extra braided metal around the wires has been pulled back to reconnect.
QUOTE (ry415 @ Oct 6 2011, 02:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It clicks but the engine does not crank. I'm talking about the relay by the ECU.
I've also cranked the engine manually with the key in the on position and I know the pump should prime with every revolution but it does not.
I just put the rebuilt motor in and the only notable change was the crank sensor end ripped off so I had to reconnect the two wires. Those two wires are wrapped in another braided type wire not sure if my issue is there or not. The wires are reconnected well but that extra braided metal around the wires has been pulled back to reconnect.
I've also cranked the engine manually with the key in the on position and I know the pump should prime with every revolution but it does not.
I just put the rebuilt motor in and the only notable change was the crank sensor end ripped off so I had to reconnect the two wires. Those two wires are wrapped in another braided type wire not sure if my issue is there or not. The wires are reconnected well but that extra braided metal around the wires has been pulled back to reconnect.
sounds like your starter solenoid is faulty or not hooked up right. throw 12volts right to starter and see if she fires. Make sure you have your 12v line hooked to correct lug and make sure they are tight no corrosion.
QUOTE (ry415 @ Oct 6 2011, 03:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have a spare solenoid to swap but not sure what you mean by correct lug?
make sure you have the wires hooked to it the correct way.
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roxiegirl819
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
The relay by the ecu is supposed to click. That means its working correctly. The fuel pump will cycle with a low battery as long as its not completely dead, but may not have enough juice to crank over the engine. As far as the started solenoid goes is does not matter which post you make hot from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. I would troubleshoot one thing at a time to determine what is causing the problem. If you stick a screw driver between the two posts on the solenoid the starter should turn over if not you could have a bad solenoid. This is done to bypass the solenoid and send power straight to the starter. If still nothing you can remove the two bolts holding the starter and remove the starter and attach 12v to the post. That should as well turn over the starter.This will eliminate if the starter is the problem. Overtime the brushes in the starter motor wear out giving less and less spring tension against the commutator on the armature. Reason for removing the starter is because when you put 12v straight to the starter with out the solenoid the starter will constantly spin this would not be good on the one way and so on. You are correct the fuel pump should cycle every revolution of the crank when the flywheel pickup passes the crank position sensor. A volt/ ohm meter is your friend. Give me a call and I can help you trouble shoot the problem .937-541-1642 -Trey
QUOTE (roxiegirl819 @ Oct 6 2011, 04:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The relay by the cue is supposed to click. That means its working correctly. As far as the started solenoid goes is does not matter which post you make hot from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. If you stick a screw driver between the two posts on the solenoid the starter should turn over if not you have a bad solenoid. Also you can remove the two bolts holding the starter and remove the starter and attach 12v to the post. That should as well turn over the starter.This will eliminate if the starter is the problem. Overtime the brushes in the starter motor wear out giving less and less spring tension against the commutator on the armature. Reason for removing the starter is because when you put 12v straight to the starter with out the solenoid the starter will constantly spin this would not be good on the one way and so on. You are correct the fuel pump should cycle every revolution of the crank when the flywheel pickup passes the crank position sensor. Give me a call and I can help you trouble shoot the problem. -Trey
WEll then i didnt know that about the noid shows how much i know about archaic starter systems
Good advice.-
roxiegirl819
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Not sure how you have the solenoid turned, but if you have the wires facing downward [ the blue and red wire ] its less strain on them where they are siliconed into the solenoid. Couldn't tell you how many times I have came across a solenoid where the wire jacket has seperated from the wire. And the wire has no support and breaks. Just a good tip.