Port job
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BlackToothGrin
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I've been thinking about tackling an intake port job myself. Never did a port on anything but I'm not too scared. Correct me if I'm wrong but for the most part the intention is to get the air to flow freely and smoothly. I understand you can get aggressive and remove more material to get more volume but at which point is too much? Any tips from the pros? Does anybody have before and after pics? I'm guessing a variable speed dremel would be best? Starting with cutting bits then sanding bits and finish off with stone bits?
What kind of safety equipment do you have? I cannot stress enough the importance of a full face breather/filter mask. The kind like the swat teams would use. With a replaceable shield cover kind of like what a cell phone has. When I work on heads I use a full head baclava ,ear protection a full zipped up jump suit and even my shoes are sealed with duct tape to keep all those evil razor sharp specs of aluminum from getting in. All it takes is one spec to get in your eye or lung to send you to the hospital.
Several powerfull lights you can focus on the heads and some kind of device like a soft jawed vice or homemade wooden stand to hold the heads secure. A shop vac you can place right in the other end of the ports to suck material out while working is great. A good pair of gloves with gel pads helps with cramping and hand numbing.
Tools I use are several types of die grinders but my favorite is a cornwell with a direct drive motor in the head. Bits are unfortunatly the expensive long shanked open flute carbides for reaching down the intake runners. A short one inch ball is good for the exhaust ports and boring out the exhaust seats. I also use a 8 inch long shank bit holder that flapper wheels can be screwed onto for final smoothing. From 60 grit to 240. Then a dremel with the full assortment of polishing heads for chamber polishing. Green cutting fluid for nonferrous metals applied every few minutes to keep the bits from clogging. Stones dont work because they clog up in seconds.
As far as the actual work extreme care must be taken to not hit a valve seat sealing area. It costs $80 a hole for me to take it to a shop to install and oversized seat if one gets damaged from a split second of concentration loss.
When opening up the runners widening the short side radius at the top of the intake and the drop by the valve is a big part of reducing resistance. You will see the stock heads have king of a sharp edged narrow cliff there which is just horrible.
First thing i do is open up the valve seat openings as much as possible right up to the seat sealing area. Magic marker or prussian blue die helps mark the seal zone. Then open up the intake neck to the size of the ported throttle body. Hows that for a start?
Several powerfull lights you can focus on the heads and some kind of device like a soft jawed vice or homemade wooden stand to hold the heads secure. A shop vac you can place right in the other end of the ports to suck material out while working is great. A good pair of gloves with gel pads helps with cramping and hand numbing.
Tools I use are several types of die grinders but my favorite is a cornwell with a direct drive motor in the head. Bits are unfortunatly the expensive long shanked open flute carbides for reaching down the intake runners. A short one inch ball is good for the exhaust ports and boring out the exhaust seats. I also use a 8 inch long shank bit holder that flapper wheels can be screwed onto for final smoothing. From 60 grit to 240. Then a dremel with the full assortment of polishing heads for chamber polishing. Green cutting fluid for nonferrous metals applied every few minutes to keep the bits from clogging. Stones dont work because they clog up in seconds.
As far as the actual work extreme care must be taken to not hit a valve seat sealing area. It costs $80 a hole for me to take it to a shop to install and oversized seat if one gets damaged from a split second of concentration loss.
When opening up the runners widening the short side radius at the top of the intake and the drop by the valve is a big part of reducing resistance. You will see the stock heads have king of a sharp edged narrow cliff there which is just horrible.
First thing i do is open up the valve seat openings as much as possible right up to the seat sealing area. Magic marker or prussian blue die helps mark the seal zone. Then open up the intake neck to the size of the ported throttle body. Hows that for a start?
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BlackToothGrin
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (BlackToothGrin @ Feb 12 2012, 02:56 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow! I'd say that's pretty good for a start. Sounds like a challange which makes me excited and weary. I should probably get another head to have at it on and if I'm not successful, or damage it, it'll be chalked up to practice. Thanks for the info! Do you have any pics to show off your handy work?
I have a beat head you can have to practice on if you want I will be down in wayne tomorrow. you have my number so just lmk
I admire people willing to get their hands dirty but some things you should leave to the pros.Theres more to porting than just hogging out the ports>If one feels they have a good understanding of what they are doing then go for it.I was the same way.Did my first 2 stroke cylinder over 25yrs ago.I say start with a minor clean up before going all out.Have a extra head on head just in case.Or concentrate on the exhaust for starters.open that up will help with piston speeds but too much youll lose back pressure.Youll learn a lot though,dont be afraid to try,everybody started somehow be it shop or tech school