fuel pump,ecu relay

Message

cannondale27 · #1 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 1:05 pm

I wouldnt recommend putting a test light anywhere near the fuel pump negative with power on you can fry the relay which is in the ecm the fix for that is a new ecm.There was a bulletin sbo2-010 that relates to this they put a protective boot and heat shrink over the wire neg side of fuel pump.If the relay is bad the pump will be running even with the key off if that is what yours is doing you need to do the bulletin and get a new ecm.When I was at cannondale for the tech school this actually happened to uswhen we were doing the pin tests.I dont want to preach but every owner of a cannondale should visit the cannondale website at least once a month and check these bulletins some are very easy and cheap to do some probably arent neccasary I guess its up to the owners to decide if they want it done.The only thing owners will be notified of is recalls.This is a industry wide policy if everyone knew all the bulletins on hondas,suzukis and all the rest they would be afraid to even start them.Cannondale is very public with these things I think it scares some people it shouldnt some are put out cause of one time incidents and maybe only effect someone who is racing everyday and never taking basic care of their quad we all have to take advantage of the site they have.Sorry I am preaching now.

cannondale27 · #2 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 10:03 pm

I dont have enough info of the problem.Why did you have to test the fuel pump?I assume it isnt running when you first hit start button?I have tested those relays and some are out of cannondale specs but still work the one in my quad for two years is out of spec.The computer may still be fine if it isnt working a new operating code and map should be installed before it is written off that can only be done at a dealership with their dealercal the $300 optimum kit wont load operating codes.Does it turn over?if it does check all your grounds especially the one by the fuel regulator and check the connections and wires for shorts make sure your fuse is good and battery is charged and in good shape.If your dealer cant get you a d&m kit go to cannondale website and click on the GP control symbol you will find what you need.

rowlrag · #3 Post by **rowlrag** » Sat Dec 07, 2002 2:20 am

Cannondales are ground controlled, meaning that the ecu and fuel pump have power all the time, and when you turn the key on the negative completes the circuit. So the fuel pump has voltage on the positive side then hook your test light ground to positive battery and check the neg side when you turn the key on the light will turn on for a couple of seconds then go out, when it is running the test light will be on constant. Becareful not to touch the light on the pos side of pump and frame or body or it will blow the fuse.

cannondale27 · #4 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Dec 07, 2002 7:47 pm

What about the stator wire update.That wire that needs sheilding would do just what you are talking about.

cannondale27 · #5 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Dec 07, 2002 8:26 pm

When you have the flywheel off check for carbon tracks in fly wheel from it rubbing stator some had problem.Also some folks find the wires at fuel pump wear through to frame.Since the only way a fuse can blow is from a short to ground that eliminates the relay itself because it is only grounded through the voltage regulator,fan,coil and the ecm itself with a diode protecting the ecm.In other words the relay isnt directly connected to ground.Cannondale has a wiring diagram on their site under service manuals.