cold weather riding

Engine, intake, exhaust, EFI, chain, sprockets, etc.
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00Honda400EX
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#11 Post by 00Honda400EX »

QUOTE
Originally posted by cannondale27
These symptoms also sound a heck of alot like gasline freeze.Believe it.Take a look in your gas cap on cold days it will have frost on it!That frost only forms with moisture.Isopropyl(heet in RED bottle)will remove moisture whether frozen or not.I always run it.1/4 bottle to tank of gas.You would not believe the amount of snowmobiles that are sent to shops when this is all that is wrong.I have also seen that this happens more often right at the freezing point or when there are extreme temp changes like bringing a cold quad into a garage.Most gas now has methonal in it which attracts moisture well when cold things are heated moisture appears and your gas sucks it in then it freezes getting caught in your filter injectors and so on.Please use it in cold weather.
Like Euro said the air temp sensor is another culprit they can get dirty or fail worth checking.


I also thought of this, thinking it was freezing where it was getting thinner, filter, injectors, and so on. I had dry gas in my tank so I can't believe it would freeze. I'll give the stuff you mentioned a shot. When it's cutting out it's like it's not getting gas and that was one of the first things I checked when I got it home.

acarli3
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#12 Post by acarli3 »

I trued to ride my quad yesterday in about 20* weather and it started fine but when I went for the gas it would stall and pop a lot. Rode for about 15 minutes and had a terrible time getting it to run smoothly. I am getting conflicting stories on weather to lean or richen the bike to solve this thought. Anyone had any sucess either way?

Derno24
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#13 Post by Derno24 »

Well the theory is if it ran fine in the warmer weather and crappy during the cold you would need to adjust the flowrate down. Down is richer

example: flowrate of 2500 would be changed to 2400 to make it richer.

I definitely agree with Cdale27 about extreme cold checking for water in the tank. I also believe that when Cannondale did their dyno runs to set these bikes they didn't have the room temp controlled. Meaning that when it got really hot outside it was really hot inside. Setting were then done in the heat. The temp sensor make adjustments, but not very drastic ones that may be needed. I am not saying that this is everyone's problem. Just something to take a look at if you have the D&M kit.

Recieve all your settings and then drop the flowrate about 250 just to see if it gets any better.


One other things that I saw that could also be a problem is incorrectly set TPS. I think Cdale27 has a post in the tech section that shows how to do this properly.

Possibly with it being a little off in both directions (flowrate and TPS) it makes it run lean.

I spent hours on the phone with Scooter from optimum trying to solve this problem with my quad. I even e-mailed him copies of dyno runs I had done. If anyone has access to an AFR meter you want to be at 12. During the warm months you can go leaner, but cold weather 12 is where you wanna be.

Hope I could help:)

acarli3
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#14 Post by acarli3 »

what is AFR and what is needed to measure this?

Derno24
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#15 Post by Derno24 »

AFR = Air Fuel Ratio......You would need a O2 sensor with a reader or a dyno run with a SNIFFER to get those readings.

wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#16 Post by wistech »

I took the quad out today , it must have been to warm (25) because in ran perfect.

54warrior
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#17 Post by 54warrior »

check out a similar post here: http://forums.cannondaler.com/viewtopic.ph...2735&highlight=

hope that works.

wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#18 Post by wistech »

OK I checked cal setting from the factory and found that everything was the same except for my flowrate which was at 2600 instead of 2400 from the factory dyno sheets. Last year I tried a blaze map with a big gun exhaust and it was to loud so I threw the toaster back on after gutting it and put the speed map back in.. I dont know why the flowrate was at 2600 because I wrote down 2400 and didnt change it. Is it possible for it to change with just a map change?
So now I installed the motospeed map and set the flowrate to 2400 ,did a throttle recalibration. We did a 80 mile trailride today and it never stalled or backfired but I could tell it must be running a little too rich because my mileage dropped from 26 to 20 mpg and had a little bog at lower rpms.. I must say that the motospeed is a much more aggressive map but the trails were kind of sloppy and wheelspin was exceesive. I will try to lean it out a little by upping the flowrate in increments of 50 and see how she runs then. It was around 20 degrees all day.

wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#19 Post by wistech »

Im a big guy and me likey wheelie spinny and a hard lowend hit. The blaze seemed kind of weak to me.smile.gif I would think the blaze speed would be similar but what the heck ,Ill try anything. Oh and thank you sir.

wistech
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#20 Post by wistech »

And to rule out the possibility of fuel pressure loss from a clogged filter or frozen line I installed a dampened fuel pressure guage in the fuel line.

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