Balanced Engine vs Balanced Crank
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You can tell by looking at the cranks, not sure other than that.
The newer cranks are 3mm longer at the flywheel side of the shaft, may be able to measure something there to determine.
I'd say they changed cranks the same time they went to the SSM case, but that's not even 100% true. I've seen old style cases with new style cranks, it was on a refurb though.
The newer cranks are 3mm longer at the flywheel side of the shaft, may be able to measure something there to determine.
I'd say they changed cranks the same time they went to the SSM case, but that's not even 100% true. I've seen old style cases with new style cranks, it was on a refurb though.
the larger diameter but narrower ones were the earliest ones, followed by standard diameter and wider. we are bushing the older cases and machining them deeper to accept the newer style bearing and turning the journal on the crank to 25mm to accept the standard size bearing. I have personnally seen cable clutches on the longer (newest style) cases and hydralic clutches on old style cases (they can be machined to accept the slave cylinder)
is there a way to tell when you open motor if you have the righjt set up or is the only right setup having wink balance the crank 600.00 is a big chunk of change i know its good insurance i have cable clutch aluminum case and cam cover it looks by reading previos post that theres a possibility some are ok could i be that lucky
QUOTE (wistech @ Oct 15 2006, 12:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks like you guys got a handle on the crank problem.............NOT
Just diggin up bones LOL
Just diggin up bones LOL
Yeah, I see your point here: But didn't see you digging into and conquering that problem when others were trying.
Glad you got it all figured out now though.
QUOTE (haydug @ Oct 15 2006, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yeah, I see your point here: But didn't see you digging into and conquering that problem when others were trying.
Glad you got it all figured out now though.
Glad you got it all figured out now though.
Yep it was 2 more months before I got out of the "mine still runs strong" denial mode and dug in with both hands . Had I not lost those first few engines I would have never got to do the R@D on the first Timbo rods and updated cranks.
You remember back when I was getting criticized by everyone for having the balls to tear down the first "perfectly good running cranks" to find out just what was causing the step wear. So yea I will take credit for figuring out the problem and testing out the solution. Timbomoose is the one who deserves our thanks for finding the solution. Its all documented in the crank update thread.
That was also back when I turned to ATK with all our data to help them figure out the solution only to be snubbed. They too were fooled into believing it was a "balance issue". Of course look at where they were getting thier info from .LOL
It was really just luck of timing. Had it happened earlier I might have been one of winkies victoms and got out.
You know whats really funny. At this years Indy show I brought up the crank problem with Falicon and they knew all about step wear and had no idea thats what was happening to our cranks . They also had no idea on how to correct the problem in thier cranks other than accept it and keep replacing the pin and bearing when it eventually failed. It has not been an issue with thier Cannondale cranks but on some of thier streetbike engines.