oil and coolant who knows???

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lilchampro1 · #1 Post by **lilchampro1** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:09 am

Ya i hear all kinds of coolants and oils being used in dales. which are good and bad? i heard engine ice, evans and water wetter are safe? true, also oil wise i hear tons of differnt but i hear not to run syntinics b/c they burn up clucths ???? gimme so help here thanks

cdrookie · #2 Post by **cdrookie** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:11 am

evans is the best coolant. oil brand isn't as important as how often it's changed. i use mobil 1 in the crankcase and valvoline durablend in the tranny.

Derno24 · #3 Post by **Derno24** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:59 am

You can run engine Ice as coolant too. I wouldn't count on water wetter though as it is just an additive. Now for oil rookie is right. Frequency of the change is very important. I would be worried about a synthetic in the clutch area as long as it is a synthetic meant for wet clutch systems.

JeffQuadShop · #4 Post by **JeffQuadShop** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 4:33 am

I've always used full synthetics in mine and I've never had any engine problems since (never even fried a clutch).
I run Motul 15w50 in the top end and Torco 80w in the bottom. I run normal automobile antifreeze.

acarli3 · #5 Post by **acarli3** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 6:34 am

I've always run redline oils in top and bottom. However, they are very expensive. When my motor rebuild is done, I am considering using mobile one red cap on the top and staying with the redline shockproof on the bottom. I have to agree with ****** on this issue. Plus I already use mobile one red cap in the YFZ. It's cheaper, easy to get (Walmart stocks it!) and I only have to keep one type of oil around.

I used Engine ice but it still corrodes the magnesium covers. It only slows it down. Get an aluminum valve cover or use evans. I am told th engine ice could work long term if you changed it out every 6 months. The deionized water changed to plain water over time and then begins the valve cover corrosion.

dawzie · #6 Post by **dawzie** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:37 am

Use Evans coolent unless you have the alumanum(sp) cam cover. Then car antifreeze is OK. The green stuff not the pink.

On the oil there are alot of choices. A full synth. is a must for the motor. For the tranny the oil must be rated for wet clutches.

To make it fool proof (which I some times am) talk to Amsoil ( www.amsoil.com ) I use there 0w-40 motorcycle oil in the motor and tranny. Ask Timbomoose what the inside of my motor looks like. He couldn't believe how clean and tight it still was. The clutches are still in good shape too.

The key to the whole thing is to change the oils often. I do both at the same time, oil is cheap as compared to parts. It gets done after about four hours of hard racing. To get 4 hours of MX racing on it thats a good two days and one open practice day.

Another way to tell if it needs changing is by the color of the motor oil. Once it gets to a darker brown its really due to be changed.

Hope this helps.

Mjollnir · #7 Post by **Mjollnir** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 4:51 pm

Superlight Shockproof in the tranny, Redline 10w30 in the motor, Evans coolant.

Canniboomer · #8 Post by **Canniboomer** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 6:02 pm

Since having the sight glass for the tranny, I like to have a distinctly different color of oil in there -- now using the Redline Lightweight shockproof (light blue).... If it suddenly darkens or the level rises, I can spot a problem early.

Using Mobil One's in the motor, but not stuck on the Red cap, as a few arguements are out there in support of lighter weight oils.