Timing issue

[rayspeed]

Magura blood is mineral oil however it is much thinner than anything you might find at a drug store.
You can use regular mineral oil but you will have a stiff one in cold weather....
You can get magura stuff here
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...tId=&mmyId=

[thedeatons]

I wouldn't get that stuff without asking Magura. Magura personally told me they did away with that viscosity and ONLY have Red Blood now, which is red in color. The OEM "blood" was clear, and similary in viscosity to Red Blood. Just an FYI.

Red Blood from Magura direct is $3 per bottle.

[quadsourcemark]

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Feb 3 2009, 02:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The various markings will only line up about once in every fifty-something rotations -- but the two cams will be at the same position for every rotation to TDC. So, dry-turning of the motor is NOT needed to easily verify timing. You can count teeth for any in-between position, or about 57 times out of 58 if just opening a motor. You should see the cam-gear marks along the line from the center-of-idler to the center of each cam. Also, an imaginary line from the center of each cam toward the upper inside through the gearmark should align with the pointed lobe of each cam. It's not necessary to pull off the timing chain and idler, unless you first verify that the timing is out of whack.

But, if you actually had removed and replaced the cam GEARS to the cams, yes the Service Manual is back-asswards for the gearpin locations. If you did not mess with either cam gear, you should still be OK by having followed the manual.

If you open the Service manual to those pages,...give a call!

I had the Exhaust decomp weight break and got wedged between the intake cam and the valve bucket....thus breaking the intake cam. I had to replace the intake cam and service the exhaust cam to replace the decomp assy. So I removed both gears from both cams. I used the manual for re-assembly. Eveything is lined up regarding the timming marks and TDC. But it does not run. I put pressure to the cylinder 100psi at TDC and it leaks through the exhaust. I rotate it 180 and it holds the air without leaking. Could this be a issue with the cam gear pins? I've done several engines in the past with no issues. I've never had the need to remove cam gears before.

Thanks,
Mark

[MX Quad Dad]

It souds like you are another victom of the service manaul. the pic for the gear install is wrong. There are several threads on this

[MX Quad Dad]

Found the post from Boomer that explains it



Canniboomer
Dec 4 2008, 05:31 PM
Post #26


between rides


Group: Sponsors
Posts: 2,111
Joined: 14-January 04
From: Battle Ground, WA
Member No.: 1,125



QUOTE(bluethunder @ Dec 3 2008, 10:44 PM)
...........completely rebuilt engine and virtually everything is brand new top to bottom. Z400 bearing, ported, new piston/cylinder, cams, valves, buckets, etc. My cams were put in exactly as it showed in the pictures in the manual b/c I was there helping in the build.
......with more history and details that you added, I think you have finally revealed the problem: IFF the new cams were replaced onto your gears, then using the Service Manual = WRONG.

Key Service Manual Errors:
.. Page 45 is WRONG! INTAKE should read EXHAUST, and EXHAUST should read INTAKE.
.. Page 48 is WRONG! Exhaust shading dots are not correct,...see corrected diagram Page 45
.. Page 49 is WRONG! Exhaust shading dots are not correct,...see corrected diagram Page 45
.. Page 63 is WRONG! The text in Paragraph 2 should read 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock, and the pin-location picture as shown below that is WRONG!

I guess we should all apologize, as a community, for not getting out more warnings! -- but anybody that calls on the phone to discuss with most of us, or comes on the forums to ask questions, would probably catch on to those warnings. Unfortunately, the various website free downloads are still not corrected, and hundreds of manuals distributed via ebay CD's are also bogus!


--------------------
Canno Moto
pacrimdm@msn.com
1-360-574-2613 Dave

[MX Quad Dad]

Some body should make this a sticky somewhere

It would be nice to maybehave a topic for stuff like this. Maybe something locked so Moderators can place topics that are short and to the point so newbes dont have to dig so long. I remembered this post and it still took me a few tries with the search to find it. it would also be nice for the oldtimers that don't do a lot of rebuilds to go back fo a refresher before digging in.


Just a thought,

It should be somthing simple so its not a lot of extra work for the mods I thought this was a well written and it would be nice to have quick and easy way to find this stuff

[thedeatons]

It is easy enough to aqcuire the full Adobe suite, which includes write capability of .pdf files. Since the manual is wrong in so many places someone should actually edit the .pdf file, and clear all the mistakes. That would be the best fix. Stickys are often ignored or not seen.

[peterock]

Something like that?

[attachment=8092:page45.pdf]

Start a new thread with all the changes and the page number just like the post above and I can update the manual easy enough.

[Canniboomer]

....thanks guys!

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=22615&hl=

[MX Quad Dad]

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Feb 21 2009, 03:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

....thanks guys!

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=22615&hl=

THANKs guys Thats a real good start. the reason I was sugesting a section where only the mods could post or move a post to, is so you didn't get the long debates that take hours to read. we could post in regular threads and debate it until most feel its accurate then a mod could transfer to a section locked from the regular members. It would keep it short.

If its something like the other recent question about Mangura clutch fluid you could have something like

recomended- Mangura blood Give part# and place to buy and give sponcers that carry it first listing
others have used _______
________
________

Not recomended ________

DO NOT USE _________