Testing a new sleeve

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hartracing3478 · #11 Post by **hartracing3478** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:30 pm

flywheels could also be an option? what do you think about making one out of stainless , lighten them up to a safe weight, and case hardening them, stainless not being ferrious is a plus. then we not only fix the breaking problem, but we also make them corrosion resistant and increase the durability as well. i dont think we would not be breaking one anytime soon. maybe press a berilium bushing that if wear occurs could be replaced. this is what they make high performance valve seats out of. Beryllium is one of the lowest-density metals. It has a remarkable combination of properties found in no other metal. It has 6 times the stiffness of steel. Beryllium has a very high melting point and it maintains useful mechanical properties up to much higher temperatures than most other metals,and wear properties is much higher than brass or standard copper. any ideas?

Dachshund · #12 Post by **Dachshund** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:51 pm

The reluctor ring needs to be ferrous for the magnetic CPS.

Why case harden? Also there is no wear issue on a flywheel. They just crack and spin.

claas900 · #13 Post by **claas900** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:52 pm

heres what we have done so far.This design has been updated but not yet tested. http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...amp;hl=flywheel

hartracing3478 · #14 Post by **hartracing3478** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:35 am

QUOTE (Dachshund @ Nov 13 2009, 05:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The reluctor ring needs to be ferrous for the magnetic CPS.

Why case harden? Also there is no wear issue on a flywheel. They just crack and spin.

so why not machine a recess and insert a magnet. no problem. case harden for extra durability. why not, it wont add weight, its just changing the molecular properties? wouldnt you say the reason for cracking is not only due to the material being made out of cast ,but also not able to withstand high rpm. so why not do it right the first time. machined parts like this take time. cant throw something in a 3 jaw chuck and turn away. no... this is something that needs to be indicated in on a adjustable 6 jaw chuck and hold tolerances in the hundredths. take a look below at the flywheel on this engine i machined.... its 6061 aluminum. with a magnet inserted in the flywheel. any parts i will be designing and manufacturing will be done on a cnc, it could be done on an engine turret lathe or mill, but for consistancy and mass quantities cnc is the way to go. These were the blocks i had made in a cnc mill for jr. dragsters below. my blocks could get bored out to use a chevy big block piston, .600 lift cam, 3.000 stroke on methanol with a 58 mm mikuni double pumper carb, titanium valves and valve springs. obviously these blocks will have to be different due to using the cannondale head, and the transmission.

cannondale27 · #15 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:11 am

Wow!What rpm do these Jr Drag motors turn.Some are running dales to 12,500 and no less than 10,500 rpm.

hartracing3478 · #16 Post by **hartracing3478** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:21 am

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Nov 13 2009, 09:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wow!What rpm do these Jr Drag motors turn.Some are running dales to 12,500 and no less than 10,500 rpm.

but

they turn around 9500 to 10,000 depending on if they bracket race them or run heads up racing. most all of my blocks they run in the outlaw class where they only run to 330ft rather than a full 1/8 mile due to the fact these engines are making insane amount of horspower and would put them way over 100mph in the 1/8 and as well as safety issues. And most of these guys use throttle stops and add weight to weigh 475 car and driver and still have issues trying to slow them down. but in all reality im wanting to start building engines for cannondales. i got out of building these jr drag motors due to joining the armed forces. so i moved back to ohio from va and now can start doing things like this again. i knew nothing about these engines untill i tore one down, they are somewhat interesting but not difficult. i wish i would have done that before i had someone build a cannondale engine for me. people were telling me man, these engines are a totally different animal and so on. so i did a little digging

cannondale27 · #17 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:29 am

Cool!The basics are there just need some improvements.Decomp mechanism has been a personal thorn in my side.Lost two motors because of them failing and another just went wednesday.I am about to throw the decomp in the garbage and deal with losing deadengine starts out of frustration with decomp.I know many feel same way about flywheel.I feel we have to get more reliability before hp is increased anymore.Once the final issues are fixed then heck yeah more is better!

hartracing3478 · #18 Post by **hartracing3478** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:35 am

what about designing a decomp similar to the decomps on top fuel dragbikes?

cannondale27 · #19 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:38 am

What do they have?I would try anything.Even considering a manual push button like chainsaws have.Hart we need help and if you want to become a hero you have come to the right place!

hartracing3478 · #20 Post by **hartracing3478** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:41 am

they machine a boss in the head of the engine and use a 2 way silinoid valve