New to Cannondale, need suggestions.

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protraxrptr17 · #11 Post by **protraxrptr17** » Mon May 31, 2004 6:59 pm

I just came in the house after pulling the engine. It was pretty easy. I wish I would've had those directions ****** posted. I definitely be calling you haydug for all my parts.

Hey Brad. You liking the 400EX? I've been trying to get ahold of Scotty to find out about that comp ratio. I guess he's out of town for the holiday. I went to Heber after I left you and got all kinds of compliments on the Cannondale. I am very proud of it. Glad we traded.

Those exhaust bolts were the worst part of the job. I didn't have a 1/4 drive 12 point 8mm. I had to use a 3/8. It looks like putting them back on is going to be even worse.

Anyway, I'll have alot more questions as this project goes on. Seems like this is the best place to ask them. Thanks to everybody for their help. Lot of cool people here.

cdrookie · #12 Post by **cdrookie** » Mon May 31, 2004 7:32 pm

you think those exhaust nuts are difficult? wait till you put the fuel line on the injectors! a little lube on the o rings helps tremendously. inspect them real good for nics. new ones are 9/16-5/16-1/8.
just got in from replacing one of mine. the electrical connections on the injectors are tricky also. wiggle and gently pull on them after it's back together to be sure they're together.

bd126 · #13 Post by **bd126** » Mon May 31, 2004 7:46 pm

Yeah I'm loving the EX. Its awful torquey for an EX.Its nice to have something with four wheels to ride again. I'm glad your happy with the Dale!! I can't wait to get the sway bar and lowering strut. I found out there's gonna be a TT race after the next rodeo, so I'll be needing it!

protraxrptr17 · #14 Post by **protraxrptr17** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:45 am

OK, Ive been reading the poll about engine failures and it seems like the decompressor thing is pretty common. Is there a certain kind of decompressor that is breaking? Or are they all the same? I want to know so I can replace mine if need be when I tear down my engine.

OCR, call my wife and talk her into letting me buy your engine. :cry:

Happyboy · #15 Post by **Happyboy** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 2:16 am

OK, I found a great trick for the exhaust nuts. Remove the top bolt of the rear shock and 3 of them can be reached with a rachet and extended arm. You will have to have something tall to set the rear end on but it is so worth it. The bottom left but is the only one that is hard to reach but it is very doable. I have a drill adapter for the rachet fittings. I put the extension on there and a small swivel then the fitting for the nuts and it works great. Even easier with one person doing the drill and you holding the fitting on the nut. You can have it off in all of 30 seconds that way.

NRath · #16 Post by **NRath** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 4:01 pm

I didn't see that anyone had replied about the flywheel puller- you will need one. I don't remember the size off hand, but if you do a search, it'll come up. It's been posted a couple times. As for the exhaust nuts, Happyboy hit it. Use a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket with extension for the 3, then the same set up with a swivel on the end works great for the 4th.

I'd suggest putting an eyebolt in your ceiling and using a tiedown strap hooked to the grab bar to hold up the back of the quad when the shock is off. It's very handy. You can also use the strap to hold the quad up on it's side if your checking your oil filter or taking your clutch cover off.

kdeal · #17 Post by **kdeal** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 4:26 pm

NRath,

How many holes are there in your ceiling in your workshop?

LOL

NRath · #18 Post by **NRath** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:22 am

With a 3/8" eye bolt threaded through the midle of it. Works like a charm! I put it through the side of the 2x6 ceiling joist about 2/3 of the way up.

protraxrptr17 · #19 Post by **protraxrptr17** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 3:13 pm

Tore my engine down yesterday. My crank did fail, but it wasn't the first in line. I assume it commited it's own suicide. The shaft on the end of the counterbalancer broke off, disabling the oil pump. I figure the vibration from the out of balance crank broke the shaft.

My biggest concern is the scavenge pump sucked up some flakes of metal and put some small grooves in the case and pump housing. They aren't very deep, just barely feel them with your fingernail. Willl they be OK or is my case trashed. I have put automatic tranny pumps back together with deeper scratches and haven't had any problems. What do you think? Can I sand it down? Or will that put too much clearance in the pump? Please tell me those grooves don't hurt much.

My cylinder and piston are also damaged. A few flakes got between the piston and cylinder and you know the rest of the story. ATK said their 450 kit is over $700. The 440 is only $252. Can anybody beat that?

There should be some kind of low oil pressure alert light or something on these bikes. My lawn mower even has one. Is there anywhere to tap into the oil stream? Maybe one of the hoses that runs into the frame? It wouldn't have to be exact, just tell us if our pumps are working or not.

The intake valve buckets have some strange wear marks on them. It doesn't look like oil starvation caused it. They look like small cracks but I don't think that is what they are.

I'm in for the Falicon crank. I can't wait to see it.

Happyboy · #20 Post by **Happyboy** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 3:47 pm

I don't think the grooving would make a big difference. As for you fixing the bad crank, piston, and sleeve, are you planning on doing this yourself or sending it off?

I am sad to see a Dale in Arkansas blow up. I was so hoping it would just avoid this little state since everything else here sucks.

Cannondaleriders

New to Cannondale, need suggestions.

Thanks to everybody.

Just One!!!