I am all for good oil and even a additive but the problem is that in almost everysingle crank I have seen the needlebearings are fine and most of the pin where the needles ride is also fine.The cage is gone!And before it leaves your crank and enters your frame in a million little pieces it chews up your pin.Check out the many posts on this there are pictures.No oil is designed to keep a cage from being wore away and broken up.That is a design error and comes from the cage repeatedly being hit against the rod and pin.There must be agreement on this since no OEM uses that style bearing in their cranks and Timbomoose,Winky and 99%sure Falicon also do not use that stock style of bearing.
That said I use Amsoil and at the time of failure there was absolutly no signs of heat induced failure in my crank.So I have no reason to blame the oil.
Blown Motor: What oil where you runnin?
QUOTE
Originally posted by azcannibal
Yes, over 9k rpms most of our oil is being forced out of the left side hole going to the left main bearing and not to the center of the cranks rod bearing. It's a proven fact!
I am not selling anything here just trying to enlighten you all on what I have learned.
Yes, over 9k rpms most of our oil is being forced out of the left side hole going to the left main bearing and not to the center of the cranks rod bearing. It's a proven fact!
I am not selling anything here just trying to enlighten you all on what I have learned.
A proven fact? I have seen no proof of this and I'm very skeptical.
I'm no physisist, but tell me how the oil all goes out the bearing hole on our cranks?
sure centrifical force pushes the oil to the outside of the journal, but with the journal full and under pressure how is it all going to one single point on the outside of the journal and being forced out that hole? There is pressure pushing the oil toward the center of the crank, there is no pressure pushing it away from the center of the crank, so this theory makes no sense at all to me. The only way the oil could have pressure pushing it away from the center of the crank would be for the crank to be wobbling, and I don't think there is anywhere near enough wobble to completely counteract the oil pressure from the pump.
BTW: that hole is only half as big as it seems, the inner race of the bearing covers half of it.
I'm wide open to be tought something here, like I said I'm no physisist or engineer.
So here are my questions:
How much oil pressure is there in the crank journal? Factory measurements where taken at the filter.
When the test that proved this where performed, how much oil pressure was applied?
Was the bearing race installed on the crank when test where performed?
Was the crank secured on both ends to prevent wobble?
This should be an easy thing to prove using engineering formulas, I just don't know what the formulas are.
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cannondale27
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azcannibal
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QUOTE
Originally posted by cannondale27
Another point.
The crud that is found in the crankpin and is deposited by centrifugal force.If all the oil were going out the hole you would think that the crud would go with it.Yet it is found well within the pin indicating that alot of oil must be reaching the hole for rod bearing.
Another point.
The crud that is found in the crankpin and is deposited by centrifugal force.If all the oil were going out the hole you would think that the crud would go with it.Yet it is found well within the pin indicating that alot of oil must be reaching the hole for rod bearing.
It looks to me like a sure sign of not enough oil making it to the rod bearing to to keep the friction and heat to a minumum. What oil is making it is being cooked inside the pin. I have tested oil many times, that crud in the crank pin looks to be a sign of stagnant oil heating up enough in one place do to lack of lube and movement to the rod bearing causeing the oil to break down and turn into what you see. My opinion of course.
www.maryngroup.com This is the *hit. This will reduce the friction on the rod bearing which will reduce the heat around the pin causing the oil not break down and cook inside.
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Canniboomer
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azcannibal
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE
Originally posted by cannondale27
I am all for good oil and even a additive but the problem is that in almost everysingle crank I have seen the needlebearings are fine and most of the pin where the needles ride is also fine.The cage is gone!And before it leaves your crank and enters your frame in a million little pieces it chews up your pin.Check out the many posts on this there are pictures.No oil is designed to keep a cage from being wore away and broken up.That is a design error and comes from the cage repeatedly being hit against the rod and pin.There must be agreement on this since no OEM uses that style bearing in their cranks and Timbomoose,Winky and 99%sure Falicon also do not use that stock style of bearing.
That said I use Amsoil and at the time of failure there was absolutly no signs of heat induced failure in my crank.So I have no reason to blame the oil.
I am all for good oil and even a additive but the problem is that in almost everysingle crank I have seen the needlebearings are fine and most of the pin where the needles ride is also fine.The cage is gone!And before it leaves your crank and enters your frame in a million little pieces it chews up your pin.Check out the many posts on this there are pictures.No oil is designed to keep a cage from being wore away and broken up.That is a design error and comes from the cage repeatedly being hit against the rod and pin.There must be agreement on this since no OEM uses that style bearing in their cranks and Timbomoose,Winky and 99%sure Falicon also do not use that stock style of bearing.
That said I use Amsoil and at the time of failure there was absolutly no signs of heat induced failure in my crank.So I have no reason to blame the oil.
I concur with this statement!
:eek: I use Mobil , my engine seized due to a stupid, stupid ***** not tightening the top spar drain tight enough and I didn't notice til my leg was being torched by hot oil as I was riding .... (I am the *****) But now it runs great except i think I am going to replace the clutches who makes a good replacement?
Thanks Dave
02 Moto
Thanks Dave
02 Moto
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aroracer72
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
im having a brainstorm here....like an apiphony or something. lol
Okay im gonna get off topic but i gotta get this out........
Has anyone tried like using a coating or anything on bearing races and the pins/ball bearings(depends which).????....cause i know of coating for hard metals that reduces friction and is highly protective from heat and damage. I mean.....i know of the oil starvation to the crank.....and i know theres a cure. Big winky prolly came close if not solved it.....i bilieve he crank plate mod is awesome...but the bearings he supplies with his cranks are the wrong ones..thats why everyone blew their motors. Not enough clearance and the crank had too much friction. I mean our motors have 3 oil pumps....why didnt cvannondale design it so a inlet gos right to the bearings. With all the other things i guess it didnt come too mind. Another idea(but very expensive)...would be to make a complete titanium crank and bearings set. This would perform awesome..cause of saved weight..and be jsut about as strong. But i feel still like i didnt quite grasp what i was trying to say///darn it......
CHAD
Ohhh i use AMSOIL 10w/40 fully synthetic 4 stroke and i love it
Okay im gonna get off topic but i gotta get this out........
Has anyone tried like using a coating or anything on bearing races and the pins/ball bearings(depends which).????....cause i know of coating for hard metals that reduces friction and is highly protective from heat and damage. I mean.....i know of the oil starvation to the crank.....and i know theres a cure. Big winky prolly came close if not solved it.....i bilieve he crank plate mod is awesome...but the bearings he supplies with his cranks are the wrong ones..thats why everyone blew their motors. Not enough clearance and the crank had too much friction. I mean our motors have 3 oil pumps....why didnt cvannondale design it so a inlet gos right to the bearings. With all the other things i guess it didnt come too mind. Another idea(but very expensive)...would be to make a complete titanium crank and bearings set. This would perform awesome..cause of saved weight..and be jsut about as strong. But i feel still like i didnt quite grasp what i was trying to say///darn it......
CHAD
Ohhh i use AMSOIL 10w/40 fully synthetic 4 stroke and i love it