TTT. Is it still holding up well?
I have looked at Lizard Skin coating in the past for the floors of old cars. I am going to get ahold of them and see if they think it will resist oil.
Ive got the quietest Dale ever.
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Canniboomer
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QUOTE (Kuma @ Jun 22 2008, 02:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks,
looks like I'll be doing this with my rebuild.
From reading the posts, 2 things to remember is the parts have to be CLEAN, and if you want to put it on thick, do it in several coatings, 1/8" is best, 1/4" should work may need more cure time.
.............................................................Would you recommend any elevated temperature curing?
looks like I'll be doing this with my rebuild.
From reading the posts, 2 things to remember is the parts have to be CLEAN, and if you want to put it on thick, do it in several coatings, 1/8" is best, 1/4" should work may need more cure time.
.............................................................Would you recommend any elevated temperature curing?
I did not notice the last postings before.....
But several years ago (after Wistech had first mentioned this magic goop, then T-44), I had found and spoke with a chemist at Wacker. He had actually formulated the material -- He stressed that it is quite unique, in that it is "hydro-curing"....Meaning, there should be at least 40% relative humidity for the best curing and adhesion -- and that up to 48 hours is best. He mentioned that with higher humidity the curing is faster -- and lower humidity the curing is longer. Wacker had some issues with truck mechanics who would spread on the material during a motor job in the morning, and then would use heated air (blow dryer), and then close up the motors the same day.....some failures.
But it's effortless easy to use with superb results if you keep that in mind -- Room temperature and some humidity.... in a heated shop in the Wisconsin winter?, or in Arizona?....just beware of very dry conditions. As an industrial product, you are not likely to find any instructions.
I am still using my same caulk-size tube from several years ago, and have done about 6 clutch covers and misc small repair jobs.
For storage between jobs?, I use a mini caulk-condom over the end, and then bag up the entire tube,.... or wrap the whole cheap caulking gun in a plastic bag.
some things done with this awesome stuff:
- clutch covers, yes really makes enough of a noise-deadening difference -- not necessary to also do the complex sidecover.
- stator seal bore repair,... to pre-fill a deep scratch found there, and after other silicones failed.
- restoring a broken-out seal nub where our valvecover gasket intersects with the impeller cover, after other attempts failed.
- sealing a bottom plate hairline weld crack on SSM motor (while motor was IN the frame, just stood vertical with cradle off for access).
This stuff sticks firmly and flexes in usage, and with a firmer durometer than other materials (closer to an O-ring or rubber seal).
For any non-structural hairline crack?... awesome! You can even apply an overlapping band of this over a narrower line of epoxy -- the epoxy will always crack again at the repair (very brittle), but this Wacker stuff can overlay, bridge, and augment or save an epoxy repair.
Every shop should have some: Wacker Elastocil A 442
It is also labeled RTV Silicone Rubber -- but it is SO different, that it should instead have another name to avoid all the confusion.
It looks just like the gray Permatex goop, gray Motoseal, or Yamabond....but it's NOT!.
It adheres like nothing else, and simply cannot be roll-peeled off like any normal silicone. You would use it where you don't intend to remove it, or for the most pesky and stubborn sealing jobs.
$23 in stock,...... caulk tubes (300ml, 10.6 oz), with a condom thingie