Rebuild 2nd Attempt

Message

cdalerider75 · #21 Post by **cdalerider75** » Tue May 03, 2005 11:41 am

The shims that are in now are 2.65, as stated above

cannondale27 · #22 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue May 03, 2005 12:29 pm

I dont want to confuse you but when I shim I just measure the ones going in then measure the clearance do the math for correct clearance needed then put new shim in of correct measurement.I dont trust numbers on shims or even the chart even though I never heard it was bad.Using the chart and assuming your clearances are in thousandths of a in. with number 265 shims in all this is what I come up with.You did torque the cam caps also?Feels like a test!

cannondale27 · #23 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue May 03, 2005 12:33 pm

As far as the timing I am not going to comment.Wistech will help you there.Dont forget to check the bucket bores in head for sticking.

Happyboy · #24 Post by **Happyboy** » Tue May 03, 2005 1:21 pm

not to mention did you lap the valves?

cdalerider75 · #25 Post by **cdalerider75** » Tue May 03, 2005 2:12 pm

QUOTE

Originally posted by Happyboy
not to mention did you lap the valves?

I didn't lap the valves... just cleaned the seats with steel wool and rubbing alcohol, flushed out the head and wiped down to clean off. Painted the valve seat face with black felt marker. Put the valve back in and rotated the valve against the seat. Look at the valve seat to see if the valve didn't remove some of the marker... a thin round line was removed around the seat. I then cleaned the valve face and valve seat face to remove the markter, installed the valve assy then poured rubbing alcohol down the IN & EX ports.. let sit for about 5 mins.. didn't have any leaks.

I found this on the web regarding lapping...looks like I can get the tool and compound at the local auto parts store.. any suggestions to the grit

It's as simple as you think it is - just go down to a autoparts store and get a small valve lapping tool, some valve paste, smear about 4 little blobs of the stuff every 90 degrees on the edge of the valve head, press the suction cup onto the valve and start lapping by rotating the lapping tool handle between your palms.
Don't use too much paste, and turn the valve a few degrees every now and again. It doesn't take much effort to get a nice clean seal - don't overdo it.
Don't get any paste on the valve stem - it doesn't do the valve guides/seals much good!

Clean thoroughly and you're done....

wistech · #26 Post by **wistech** » Tue May 03, 2005 5:18 pm

Keep going. Looks right on.

cdalerider75 · #27 Post by **cdalerider75** » Tue May 03, 2005 6:26 pm

Besides the 400ex... what other shims will fit? I am having a hard time finding sizes 340 and 350 shims.

Happyboy · #28 Post by **Happyboy** » Tue May 03, 2005 7:13 pm

400ex shims fit??? I am having a hard time with you needing a shim that size. Sounds fishy. Maybe its the new valves. Are you planning on getting it to run and then drop the motor to redo the valves after break in?

cdalerider75 · #29 Post by **cdalerider75** » Tue May 03, 2005 7:26 pm

sorry I looked thru some post.. it seems like it is the z400 shims some say will work.

What I am planning to do is... torque down the cam retainer... right now they are tighten down.. but didn't make sure they were torqued down. (Ok prob something that I should of known to do before I measured, but the bolt are tight) Remeasure.. just to make sure.. I always like to double check on measurements!!

And after a weekend of ridding I do plan on re-dropping and checking again... I really don't need to have something go wrong due to me now doing a follow up.

cannondale27 · #30 Post by **cannondale27** » Wed May 04, 2005 12:05 pm

You dont need to drop it after breakin!Trust yourself.Listen for odd noises.Yes you can hear irregular noises.Change the oil and filter in one hour and then 3hrs again.Cut the oil filter apart to inspect.It will be fine.