I would take wistech up on the one he offered.Otherwise i could sell one.
It's easy to do,dropping the motor is the worst part.
Please Help I Feel Like Throwing out my Dale
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
What no JB weld????
What do you mean don't use JB weld?
That is what I planned on fixing my CWR cams with after they go flat. LOL
Good advice.
Smitty
That is what I planned on fixing my CWR cams with after they go flat. LOL
Good advice.
Smitty
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
With your mechanical difficulties so far, I would still suggest to not give up, yet, and try fixing it in place. Without more experience or study, you may break something else during a motor drop (unless you are planning one anyway).
Those skinny drill bits cannot be pressed so hard!, and cutting fluid would certainly help. Drilling at the point between hard and soft takes patience to avoid deflecting the bit. Plugging that small hole would be fine with JB weld, but it's probably not even needed -- that shouldn't leak after the fix anyway. For now, getting the broken guts out from the center is the important thing. Is the original bolt with the broken extractor out yet? If you mess up the o-ring sealing surface, that's no biggie either, since using a bonded sealing washer with the replacement bolt or nut will solve that.
You can still retap larger, or retap deeper, or JB-weld a stud in there like C27 suggested. Post up some pics, or just use the phone!
Those skinny drill bits cannot be pressed so hard!, and cutting fluid would certainly help. Drilling at the point between hard and soft takes patience to avoid deflecting the bit. Plugging that small hole would be fine with JB weld, but it's probably not even needed -- that shouldn't leak after the fix anyway. For now, getting the broken guts out from the center is the important thing. Is the original bolt with the broken extractor out yet? If you mess up the o-ring sealing surface, that's no biggie either, since using a bonded sealing washer with the replacement bolt or nut will solve that.
You can still retap larger, or retap deeper, or JB-weld a stud in there like C27 suggested. Post up some pics, or just use the phone!
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
those very large diameter sideborings really complicate things.
Now you can't stay centered to tap it. All you could do now is use a small cutoff wheel on a die grinder to cut back the shaft until you can get a flat surface , and can punch/re-tap. Then you could still use a long 5mm bolt with an outside sealing washer (like used on metal roofing same #12 bonded washer)... If you try it, please stuff a rag in there behind where you are working. I'd say you still have one more chance, if you want to ride this weekend! good luck.
Now you can't stay centered to tap it. All you could do now is use a small cutoff wheel on a die grinder to cut back the shaft until you can get a flat surface , and can punch/re-tap. Then you could still use a long 5mm bolt with an outside sealing washer (like used on metal roofing same #12 bonded washer)... If you try it, please stuff a rag in there behind where you are working. I'd say you still have one more chance, if you want to ride this weekend! good luck.
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Measure the length of it first.Then cut it off just far enough to remove damaged area.If I remember right the hole is tapped quite a ways down so you probably wont even have to tap it.
There probably isnt time for a proper stud replacement so for now I would just find a screw of same size as the stock screw but a inch longer or so.One from center of valve cover might be right length but check hardware store.
Cut the head off it.Clean the are you cut up nice with grinder and run a nut over it a couple times.
Get a whole bunch of nuts or two washers and a small piece of metal tubing make it however long it was before.Now instead of a bolt to hold cover on use a nut.This is the Stud Update for the oil cover!Probably not a bad idea even for a unbroken one.Dont forget Loctite on the tower stud connection.
There probably isnt time for a proper stud replacement so for now I would just find a screw of same size as the stock screw but a inch longer or so.One from center of valve cover might be right length but check hardware store.
Cut the head off it.Clean the are you cut up nice with grinder and run a nut over it a couple times.
Get a whole bunch of nuts or two washers and a small piece of metal tubing make it however long it was before.Now instead of a bolt to hold cover on use a nut.This is the Stud Update for the oil cover!Probably not a bad idea even for a unbroken one.Dont forget Loctite on the tower stud connection.